<\/p>\n
Jese\u0148 je ve\u013emi neporiadna \u017eena! Tu si zabudne rukavice, tam hod\u00ed \u0161\u00e1l, tam visia pan\u010duch\u00e1\u010de, na stole nech\u00e1 r\u00fa\u017e, na no\u010dnom stol\u00edku bro\u0161\u0148u, do hrn\u010deka hod\u00ed n\u00e1u\u0161nice, nezatvor\u00ed parfum, neo\u010dist\u00ed kefu od vlasov… Ni\u010d jej nie je sv\u00e4t\u00e9, \u201eco nikoliv, to tak\u00e9\u201c a neuhne ani pred Par\u00ed\u017eom.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Jesenn\u00fd Par\u00ed\u017e je in\u00fd ako jarn\u00fd. Trochu menej sa mo\u017eno leskne, no je ove\u013ea farebnej\u0161\u00ed, svetlo je m\u00e4k\u0161ie a ke\u010f sp\u0155chne, slnko sa obzer\u00e1 v ka\u017edej kalu\u017ei.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n V Par\u00ed\u017ei je ve\u013ea stromov a na jese\u0148 v\u0161etky posielaj\u00fa do ul\u00edc listy. Hocikde v kaviarni si ich m\u00f4\u017eete pre\u010d\u00edta\u0165. List n\u00e1jdete na stole ved\u013ea popoln\u00edka, na schodoch cestou do metra, d\u00e1ke s\u00fa \u201eza\u0161prajcnut\u00e9\u201c na kovovom ornamente pouli\u010dnej lampy, in\u00e9 nesie vietor, vplietaj\u00fa sa ako nepravideln\u00e9 dek\u00f3rum do kvetinovej v\u00fdzdoby v Luxembursk\u00fdch z\u00e1hrad\u00e1ch, nesie ich voda vo font\u00e1nach, ba ke\u010f sa veziete autom, zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee nie jese\u0148 pri\u0161la do Par\u00ed\u017ea, ale \u017ee ona to tu vlastne spravuje a m\u00e1 pod palcom ako d\u00e1ka neporiadna maitresse de la maison\u2026<\/span><\/p>\n Neuzn\u00e1vam bezcie\u013ene chodenie po pamiatkach, ak sa chv\u00ed\u013eu nehovor\u00ed o literat\u00fare, za\u010dne mi v rozhovore ch\u00fdba\u0165. V Par\u00ed\u017ei v\u0161ak mus\u00edte na literat\u00faru ustavi\u010dne myslie\u0165. Zakop\u00e1vate o \u0148u ako o jese\u0148. Moja par\u00ed\u017eska cesta bola najm\u00e4 H\u013eadan\u00edm a nach\u00e1dzan\u00edm Marcela Prousta. Skon\u010dila sa na cintor\u00edne pri Proustovom hrobe.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Ak\u00fd je teda Proustov Par\u00ed\u017e? Je to Par\u00ed\u017e, ktor\u00fd vznikal po\u010das Belle \u00c9poque… V \u0148om pre\u017eil p\u00e1n Proust v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inu svojho \u017eivota a v \u0148om sa odohr\u00e1va i jeho rom\u00e1n H\u013eadanie straten\u00e9ho \u010dasu. \u010co teda v jesennom Par\u00ed\u017ei h\u013eada\u0165, ak chcete n\u00e1js\u0165 Prousta?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Belle \u00c9poque bolo n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 a komplikovan\u00e9 obdobie pln\u00e9 ve\u013ek\u00fdch zmien. Proust za\u017eil elektrifik\u00e1ciu, zav\u00e1dzanie vodovodov, v\u00fd\u0165ahov, telef\u00f3nov, vznik filmu, po Par\u00ed\u017ei prestali prem\u00e1va\u0165 konsk\u00e9 elektri\u010dky a za\u010dali jazdi\u0165 aut\u00e1, pre\u017eil zlat\u00fd vek svetov\u00fdch v\u00fdstav, videl, ako stavali Eiffelovu ve\u017eu, Grand a Petit Palais, \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00fa stanicu d’Orsay i prv\u00fa linku metra.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Ach, keby som u\u013epievala na detailoch, po\u017eeniem svoj par\u00ed\u017esky sprievod a\u017e na Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, ale fajnov\u00fd Proust by dnes asi ner\u00e1d priznal svoje v\u00e4zby na desiaty obvod, tak rad\u0161ej na Malesherbes, ne\u010faleko kostola Madeleine, dom vraj e\u0161te st\u00e1le stoj\u00ed, aj Colonne Morris, st\u013ap, ku ktor\u00e9mu sa mlad\u00fd Marcel denne pon\u00e1h\u013eal, aby z plag\u00e1tu zistil, \u010do d\u00e1vaj\u00fa v opere a\u00a0hlavne, kto hr\u00e1, mo\u017eno Sarah Bernhardt, ktor\u00e1 t\u00fa\u017eila ma\u0165 velik\u00e1nsky leopard\u00ed chvost.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Proustova \u0161kola, Lyc\u00e9e Condorcet, susedila s kostolom Saint Louis d’Antin na rue Caumartin. \u0160tvrtky b\u00fdvali vo\u013en\u00e9 a ak to po\u010dasie dovolilo, tr\u00e1vil ich v z\u00e1hrad\u00e1ch na Champs-Elys\u00e9es. Tu sa hr\u00e1val s rusovl\u00e1skou Gilbertou, dc\u00e9rou Charlesa Swanna a Odette de Cr\u00e9cy, v skuto\u010dnosti s Mariou de Benardaky, dc\u00e9rou po\u013esk\u00e9ho \u0161\u013eachtica.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Sarah Bernhardt, mimochodom, \u017eila na Rue Fortuny, v ulici, ktor\u00fa ob\u00fdvali here\u010dky a kurtiz\u00e1ny. Dom liter\u00e1rnej postavy Odette de Cr\u00e9cy v\u00a0H\u013eadan\u00ed <\/i>na ulici La P\u00e9rouse, ne\u010faleko Etoile, by vyzeral takmer rovnako.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Na Haussmanovom bulv\u00e1ri sa nach\u00e1dzal b\u00fdval\u00fd domov bank\u00e1ra a zberate\u013ea umenia Edouarda Andr\u00e9ho a jeho man\u017eelky a umelkyne N\u00e9lie Jacquemart. N\u00f3bl sal\u00f3n, v ktorom v\u0161ak Marcel Proust nikdy nebol hos\u0165om, no pohyboval sa v rovnak\u00fdch spolo\u010densk\u00fdch kruhoch a sal\u00f3noch. Nav\u0161tevoval sal\u00f3n Genevi\u00e8vy Straus, dc\u00e9ry skladate\u013ea Fromentala Hal\u00e9vyho, vdovy po Bizetovi, ktor\u00e1 sa vydala za vplyvn\u00e9ho pr\u00e1vnika Emila Strausa. Tam sa stretol s mnoh\u00fdmi osobnos\u0165ami, ktor\u00e9 in\u0161pirovali jeho postavy – Charles Haas bol jedn\u00fdm z modelov pre Swanna, Comtesse de Greffulhe pre vojvodky\u0148u de Guermantes. Ke\u010f par\u00ed\u017esku spolo\u010dnos\u0165 rozdelila Dreyfusova af\u00e9ra, jej sal\u00f3n sa stal miestom, kde sa stretli pr\u00edvr\u017eenci Dreyfusa. Maliar Edgar Degas a hudobn\u00fd skladate\u013e Claude Debussy, naopak, dali tomuto sal\u00f3nu zbohom…<\/span><\/p>\n Nesk\u00f4r sa aj Proust pres\u0165ahoval na Hausmannov bulv\u00e1r. Na stodvojku. Tu v posteli nap\u00edsal H\u013eadanie… Chodieval do re\u0161taur\u00e1cie Larue na N\u00e1mest\u00ed Madeleine a do kaviarne Weber na rue Royale. V kvetin\u00e1rstve Lachaume si denne kupoval \u010derstv\u00fa orchideu, ktor\u00fa nosil pripnut\u00fa podobne ako jeho Swann na klope saka.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Boli sme v Opere Garnier, v hoteli Ritz, b\u00fdvali sme ne\u010faleko Boulonsk\u00e9ho les\u00edka. Konsk\u00e9 povozy s d\u00e1mami r\u00f4zneho stup\u0148a v\u00e1\u017enosti s\u00fa s\u00edce pre\u010d, ale les\u00edk sa nezmenil.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n V roku 1919 sa pres\u0165ahoval na 16. Rue Hamelin 44 (teraz trojhviezdi\u010dkov\u00fd hotel), kde 18. novembra 1922 zomrel – ne\u010faleko miesta, kde sa narodil. Z\u00e1du\u0161n\u00e1 om\u0161a sa konala v kaplnke Saint Pierre de Chaillot na Avenue Marceau, ktor\u00fa teraz nahradil v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed kostol. Bol pochovan\u00fd na cintor\u00edne P\u00e8re Lachaise. Otec Lachaise bol spovedn\u00edkom \u013dudov\u00edta XIV. Okrem honosn\u00fdch hrobov, ktor\u00fdch je takmer mili\u00f3n, je v kolumb\u00e1riu ulo\u017een\u00fd popol \u010fal\u0161\u00edch stov\u00e1k v\u00fdznamn\u00fdch osobnost\u00ed. My v\u0161ak h\u013ead\u00e1me Marcela Prousta. Stretnutie s n\u00edm od\u010fa\u013eujeme podobne ako on v jednej zo svojich \u010d\u0155t pre\u010d\u00edtanie vlastn\u00e9ho textu, doprajeme si jesenn\u00e9 chodn\u00edky a cesti\u010dky medzi hrobmi, zastavenia pri jeho s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00edkoch, priate\u013eoch alebo milencoch, stret\u00e1vame hudobn\u00e9ho skladate\u013ea Raynalda Hahna, Sarah Bernhardt, Odettu, Gilbertu, tu le\u017e\u00ed monsieur Swann, P\u00e8<\/span>re Lachaise nie je len, ako hovor\u00ed b\u00e1snik Mihalkovi\u010d, spomienkov\u00fdm modelom mesta. Je miestom, kde odpo\u010d\u00edvaj\u00fa spisovatelia so svojimi liter\u00e1rnymi postavami…<\/span><\/p>\n \u010co sme nestihli v meste, dopovieme si tu. Vyber\u00e1m z ta\u0161ky keramick\u00e9ho vt\u00e1\u010dika z Modry a kladiem ho na hrob milovan\u00e9mu autorovi, za ktor\u00e9ho sa potichu pomodl\u00edm. Spoza ved\u013eaj\u0161ieho pomn\u00edka vyjde hornista a zahr\u00e1 Ravelovu Pavanu pre m\u0155tvu infantku. Hornu alebo lesn\u00fd roh m\u00e1me my, \u0160ikulovci, v erbe. Z ga\u0161tanov opad\u00e1va l\u00edstie. Aj ga\u0161tany.\u00a0Som dojat\u00e1 podobne ako na proustovsk\u00fdch koncertoch, ktor\u00e9 pripravila Spolo\u010dnos\u0165 priate\u013eov Marcela Prousta. Ne\u010faleko n\u00e1s sa zhov\u00e1raj\u00fa chlapi, ktor\u00ed sem pri\u0161li hraba\u0165 l\u00edstie. Potom sa potichu s kamar\u00e1tkami smejeme, \u017ee sme sa stali mo\u017eno najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edmi priate\u013ekami Marcela Prousta, to\u013eko podujat\u00ed, v\u00fdstav, koncertov \u010di miest s proustovskou tematikou sme nav\u0161t\u00edvili.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Jese\u0148 je ve\u013emi neporiadna \u017eena. R\u00e1no v Par\u00ed\u017ei cestou do metra c\u00edtite jemn\u00fd odor v\u00e4dn\u00faceho l\u00edstia, mo\u017eno trochu za\u00faden\u00fd dymom z kom\u00ednov. T\u00fa\u017eite po kab\u00e1te, ktor\u00fdm sa s \u0148ou farebne zlad\u00edte. A ve\u010der, ke\u010f svietia pouli\u010dn\u00e9 lampy a na chodn\u00edkoch \u017elto blikaj\u00fa drobn\u00e9 l\u00edsto\u010dky, zrazu viete, \u017ee onedlho bud\u00fa Vianoce. Potrebujete si k\u00fapi\u0165 nieko\u013eko kilogramov kn\u00edh na zimu, te\u0161\u00edte sa domov, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 viete, \u017ee pod pul\u00f3vrom v\u00e1m srdce bije na par\u00ed\u017esku n\u00f4tu a\u00a0nechcete, aby sa to skon\u010dilo, naopak, chcete, aby ten \u0161elest trval \u010do najdlh\u0161ie, aspo\u0148 k\u00fdm sa treb\u00e1rs na jar do tohoto mesta nevr\u00e1tite.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Nech s\u00fa va\u0161e novembrov\u00e9 poch\u00f4dzky po cintor\u00ednoch farebn\u00fdmi prech\u00e1dzkami pre\u017eiaren\u00fdmi jesenn\u00fdm slnkom. Va\u0161a Veve<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Veronika \u0160ikulov\u00e1<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Jese\u0148 je ve\u013emi neporiadna \u017eena! Tu si zabudne rukavice, tam hod\u00ed \u0161\u00e1l, tam visia pan\u010duch\u00e1\u010de, na stole nech\u00e1 r\u00fa\u017e, na no\u010dnom stol\u00edku bro\u0161\u0148u, do hrn\u010deka hod\u00ed n\u00e1u\u0161nice, nezatvor\u00ed parfum, neo\u010dist\u00ed kefu od vlasov… Ni\u010d jej nie je sv\u00e4t\u00e9, \u201eco nikoliv, to tak\u00e9\u201c a neuhne ani pred Par\u00ed\u017eom.\u00a0 Jesenn\u00fd Par\u00ed\u017e je in\u00fd ako jarn\u00fd. Trochu […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":10684,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[16,115],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10683","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fejton","category-november-2022"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10683","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10683"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10683\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10685,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10683\/revisions\/10685"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10684"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10683"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10683"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10683"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}