{"id":13659,"date":"2025-11-06T23:02:59","date_gmt":"2025-11-06T21:02:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/?p=13659"},"modified":"2025-11-06T23:02:59","modified_gmt":"2025-11-06T21:02:59","slug":"john-galliano-marnotratny-syn-gibraltaru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/john-galliano-marnotratny-syn-gibraltaru\/","title":{"rendered":"John Galliano &#8211; M\u00e1rnotratn\u00fd syn Gibralt\u00e1ru"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>\u201eChcem, aby \u013eudia zabudli na \u00fa\u010dty za elektrinu, na zamestnanie, na v\u0161etko. Je \u010das na fant\u00e1ziu. M\u00f4j cie\u013e je vlastne \u00faplne jednoduch\u00fd: ke\u010f sa mu\u017e pozrie na \u017eenu v\u00a0niektor\u00fdch mojich \u0161atoch, chcem, aby si v\u00a0duchu povedal: <\/em><em>&#8218;<\/em><em>Mus\u00edm ju ma\u0165!<\/em><em>&#8218;<\/em><em> Pod\u013ea m\u0148a si ka\u017ed\u00e1 \u017eena zasl\u00fa\u017ei by\u0165 \u017eiaduca. Chcem toho sn\u00e1\u010f pr\u00edli\u0161?\u201c Napriek nesl\u00e1vnemu koncu zna\u010dka Christian Dior bude nav\u017edy sp\u00e4t\u00e1 s\u00a0menom John Galliano. Britsk\u00fd m\u00f3dny n\u00e1vrh\u00e1r s\u00a0hor\u00facou \u0161panielskou krvou v\u00a0tom mal od za\u010diatku jasno. Jeho cie\u013e v \u017eivote? \u201eR\u00e1d by som videl, ako cel\u00fd svet nos\u00ed \u0161aty od Johna Galliana.\u201c\u00a0 <\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-13661\" src=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Bol prostredn\u00fd medzi dvoma sestrami, na svet sa vyp\u00fdtal 28. novembra 1960. Jeho mama Anita poch\u00e1dzala zo \u0160panielska, z\u00a0mesta La L\u00ednea de la Concepci\u00f3n, hrani\u010diacim s Gibralt\u00e1rom, britsk\u00fdm \u00fazem\u00edm na Pyrenejskom polostrove, ktor\u00e9 sa ku\u00a0\u0160panielsku up\u00ednalo ako drobn\u00fd apendix. Otec John Joseph poch\u00e1dzal z\u00a0Gibralt\u00e1ru a\u00a0pracoval ako in\u0161talat\u00e9r. Profesia otca Galliana sprev\u00e1dzala po cel\u00fd \u017eivot, m\u00e9di\u00e1 o\u00a0\u0148om \u010dasto s\u00a0ob\u013eubou p\u00edsali ako o \u201esynovi in\u0161talat\u00e9ra\u201c, mo\u017eno aby aj takto pod\u010diarkli priepastn\u00fd rozdiel medzi otcom a\u00a0jeho potomkom. Galliano na Gibralt\u00e1r v\u017edy spom\u00ednal ako na miesto, ktor\u00e9 ho mocne ovplyvnilo, \u201epresvetlen\u00e9 uli\u010dky, slne\u010dn\u00e1 \u017eiara, modr\u00e9 nebo a\u00a0hlavn\u00e9 ulice pln\u00e9 n\u00e1morn\u00edkov\u201c. Milova svoju matku, jej prudk\u00fd, divok\u00fd temperament, miloval flamenco, ktor\u00e9 tancovala, niekedy aj na stole. Pod\u013ea otca bol Gibralt\u00e1r pre jeho deti pritesn\u00fd, chcel pre ne lep\u0161ie vzdelanie, a\u00a0tak zbalil rodinu aj so \u0161es\u0165ro\u010dn\u00fdm Johnom a\u00a0z le\u017e\u00e9rneho slne\u010dn\u00e9ho Stredomoria, \u201emodrej oblohy, zmesi kult\u00far, n\u00e1bo\u017eenstiev, flamenca, koren\u00edn a\u00a0v\u00f4n\u00ed\u201c ju pres\u0165ahoval na\u00a0chudobn\u00e9 lond\u00fdnske predmestie, ktor\u00e9 John e\u0161te aj po rokoch vn\u00edmal ako \u201edrsn\u00e9, drsn\u00e9, drsn\u00e9&#8230; Siv\u00e9 b\u00farkov\u00e9 mraky, mokr\u00e1 krieda. C\u00edtil som sa ako mimozem\u0161\u0165an.\u201c V\u00a0zamra\u010denej \u0161tvrti Battersea Anita \u010falej tancovala flamenco, syna oslovovala Juan Carlos a\u00a0rodinu k\u0155mila stredomorsk\u00fdmi jedlami. \u201ePomerne skoro mi bolo jasn\u00e9,\u201c zam\u00fd\u0161\u013ea sa Galliano, \u201e\u017ee m\u00e1m \u0161panielsku hrdos\u0165 po matke &#8211; to, ako chod\u00edte i\u00a0ako sa obliekate. Nikdy som nepoznal nikoho, kto by mal viac \u0161iat ako ona&#8230; St\u00e1le si spom\u00ednam, ako sa za \u0148ou v\u0161etci ot\u00e1\u010dali.\u201c Ale aj on sa l\u00ed\u0161il od svojich britsk\u00fdch spolu\u017eiakov, ktor\u00fdch dr\u00e1\u017edila jeho stredomorsky sned\u00e1 ple\u0165 a drobn\u00e1 chud\u00e1 postava. Za svoju odli\u0161nos\u0165 neraz ut\u0155\u017eil modriny, ale nau\u010dil sa ich skr\u00fdva\u0165. V\u00a0\u0161estn\u00e1stich sa v\u00e1\u017ene zaoberal my\u0161lienkou, \u017ee p\u00f4jde\u00a0\u0161tudova\u0165 jazyky (doma s\u00a0mamou hovoril po \u0161panielsky a\u00a0s\u00a0otcom po anglicky), nakoniec si v\u0161ak vybral kurz textilu na East London College a\u00a0popritom si privyr\u00e1bal ako predava\u010d v\u00a0obchode s\u00a0oble\u010den\u00edm na Oxford Street. Po roku dostal odpor\u00fa\u010danie, aby to sk\u00fasil na Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design, dnes u\u017e presl\u00e1venej, ale vtedy e\u0161te nie pr\u00edli\u0161 zn\u00e1mej, hoci re\u0161pektovanej umeleckej \u0161kole. Tam kone\u010dne na\u0161iel seberovn\u00fdch, rovnako uleten\u00fdch, extravagantn\u00fdch, umelecky naladen\u00fdch spolu\u017eiakov. Najsk\u00f4r \u0161tudoval grafiku, v\u00fdborne kreslil a\u00a0chcel sa sta\u0165 ilustr\u00e1torom, v\u00a0tre\u0165om ro\u010dn\u00edku v\u0161ak presedlal na m\u00f3dne n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rstvo a\u00a0\u010doskoro ho v\u00a0\u0161kole mali za hviezdu. \u00daspe\u0161n\u00fd \u0161tudent s\u00a0mega talentom v\u0161ak hviezdil aj v\u00a0no\u010dn\u00fdch kluboch, koka\u00edn, speed, r\u00f4zne pilulky i\u00a0hero\u00edn, t\u00fdm v\u0161etk\u00fdm si pre\u0161iel, s\u00e1m seba z\u00a0t\u00fdch \u010dias pop\u00edsal ako \u201eklubov\u00e9ho d\u00e9mona\u201c. U\u010dil sa nielen na \u0161kole, ale aj v\u00a0divadle, kde po ve\u010deroch pracoval ako garderobi\u00e9r. R\u00e1d sed\u00e1val v\u00a0prvom rade, \u201eaby videl, ako kost\u00fdmy funguj\u00fa na javisku\u201c, ako l\u00e1tka pod svetlom reflektorov men\u00ed farby, ako si rozumie s\u00a0telom, ako dok\u00e1\u017ee vyvola\u0165 em\u00f3cie a\u00a0hercovi pom\u00f4c\u0165 vynikn\u00fa\u0165 v\u00a0postave a\u00a0ako to v\u0161etko hr\u00e1 dokopy a\u00a0vytv\u00e1ra dokonale prepracovan\u00fd divadeln\u00fd obraz&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Afganistan odmieta z\u00e1padn\u00e9 ide\u00e1ly <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>O\u00a0jeho absolventskej prehliadke hovorili v\u0161etci. \u0160tudenti aj profesori. Najsk\u00f4r \u017eila len na papieri, ale jeden u\u010dite\u013e mu poradil, aby zo svojich ilustr\u00e1ci\u00ed vytvoril absolventsk\u00fa kolekciu. Zaumienil si, \u017ee mus\u00ed by\u0165 siln\u00e1 a\u00a0extr\u00e9mna, z\u00a0hist\u00f3rie ho fascinoval Les Incroyables z\u00a0obdobia franc\u00fazskej revol\u00facie, a\u00a0tak mohli vynikn\u00fa\u0165 dlh\u00e9 kab\u00e1ty s\u00a0ramenami a\u017e pri lak\u0165och, obrovsk\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u0161te v\u00a0\u0161t\u00fdle kimon, \u0161irok\u00e9 nohavice, nad\u00fdchan\u00e9 romantick\u00e9 ko\u0161ele s\u00a0vysok\u00fdmi goliermi a nariasen\u00fdm \u0161atkami na krku, dlh\u00e9 jazdeck\u00e9 \u010di\u017emy a\u017e po kolen\u00e1, v\u0161etko ve\u013emi androg\u00fdnne, ve\u013emi prehnan\u00e9, vy\u0161ponovan\u00e9 na maximum, rozdran\u00e9, kab\u00e1ty, ktor\u00e9 sa dali nosi\u0165 naruby, gomb\u00edky akoby chceli odpadn\u00fa\u0165, ko\u0161ele nafarben\u00e9 \u0161kvrnami od \u010daju, op\u00e1len\u00e9 okraje&#8230; Debut to bol triumf\u00e1lny a \u00faspech tak\u00fd, \u017ee obchodn\u00fd dom Browns venoval Gallianovi svoje honosn\u00e9 v\u00fdklady a\u00a0odk\u00fapil cel\u00fa kolekciu. Jeden vystaven\u00fd kab\u00e1t si okam\u017eite do Ameriky odniesla Diana Ross. Vz\u00e1p\u00e4t\u00ed Galliana oslovila Amanda Griev, mlad\u00e1 m\u00f3dna redaktorka \u010dasopisu Harpers &amp; Queen, aby si vybrala nieko\u013eko jeho outfitov na fotenie m\u00f3dneho editorialu v\u00a0barokovom \u0161t\u00fdle. Medzi nimi to bola l\u00e1ska na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead, hoci platonick\u00e1, partnerstvo dvoch kreat\u00edvnych du\u0161\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 sa navz\u00e1jom dop\u013a\u0148ali ako jin a\u00a0jang. Na Amande ho fascinoval jej prominentn\u00fd p\u00f4vod, sob\u00e1\u0161om s\u00a0mlad\u00fdm britsk\u00fdm aristokratom sa z\u00a0nej stala bar\u00f3nka Harlech, vychov\u00e1vali ju so striebornou ly\u017ei\u010dkou v\u00a0\u00fastach a\u00a0vzdel\u00e1vali v\u00a0Oxforde. Amandu zasa ok\u00fazlila Johnova kreativita, jeho bezbreh\u00fd idealizmus a romantick\u00e1 povaha zasn\u00edvan\u00e9ho rojka. Ako sama povedala, svoj \u017eivot bez Johna si u\u017e nedok\u00e1zala predstavi\u0165, opustila pr\u00e1cu v\u00a0\u010dasopise a\u00a0ke\u010f Galliano z\u00edskal svojho prv\u00e9ho sponzora, kodansk\u00e9ho majite\u013ea m\u00f3dneho butiku Johanna Bruna, za\u010dala pracova\u0165 po Johnovom boku. Jej vplyv na mlad\u00e9ho Galliana bol z\u00e1sadn\u00fd, ich brainstorming mal kadenciu gu\u013eometnej pa\u013eby, jeden hodil udi\u010dku a\u00a0druh\u00fd u\u017e lovil zlat\u00fa rybku, ona na\u010drtla v\u00edziu a\u00a0on ju u\u017e rozpracoval na cel\u00fa kolekciu, s\u010d\u00edtan\u00e1, rozh\u013eaden\u00e1 a\u00a0vzdelan\u00e1 Amanda vym\u00fd\u0161\u013eala t\u00e9my kolekci\u00ed, s\u00fdtila Johnovu kreativitu svojimi postrehmi, ako dra\u010dica st\u00e1le v\u00a0strehu bdela nad jeho tvoriv\u00fdm duchom, bola to jej parketa kombinova\u0165 oble\u010denie s\u00a0doplnkami, ods\u00fahlasi\u0165 fin\u00e1lnu paletu farieb, neu\u0161iel jej \u017eiaden detail. \u201eJa p\u00ed\u0161em noty a\u00a0Amanda z\u00a0nich sklad\u00e1 symf\u00f3nie\u201c, prizn\u00e1val v\u00a0t\u00fdch \u010dasoch Galliano. Ako sa vyjadrila jedna spolupracovn\u00ed\u010dka: \u201eObaja mali rovnak\u00fa fant\u00e1ziu, nie\u010do na sp\u00f4sob rozpr\u00e1vky, ktor\u00fa spolu vytv\u00e1rali.\u201c Prv\u00e1 Gallianova kolekcia v\u0161ak niesla nie pr\u00edli\u0161 rozpr\u00e1vkov\u00fd n\u00e1zov: Afganistan odmieta z\u00e1padn\u00e9 ide\u00e1ly a\u00a0mlad\u00e9ho n\u00e1vrh\u00e1ra k\u00a0nej in\u0161piroval obr\u00e1zok zo star\u00e9ho vydania satirick\u00e9ho \u010dasopisu Punch, ako Afganec v tradi\u010dnom\u00a0odeve zadup\u00e1va do zeme klasick\u00fd britsk\u00fd pin\u010d (klob\u00fak). U\u017e len tie farby, ktor\u00fdmi rozohral nap\u00e4tie medzi dvoma kult\u00farami! Neskuto\u010dne s\u00fdte odtiene \u0161afranu, dr\u00e1\u017ediv\u00e9 kar\u00ed, tmav\u00e1 \u010derven\u00e1, kombin\u00e1cia b\u00e9\u017eovej a\u00a0levandu\u013eovej&#8230; Presn\u00fd opak \u201etvrdej mil\u00e1nskej androg\u00fdnie\u201c, ako s\u00e1m nazval v\u00a0tom \u010dase prevl\u00e1daj\u00faci Armaniho minimalizmus. \u00daspech kolekcie priviedol Galliana na str\u00e1nky Vogue aj do najprest\u00ed\u017enej\u0161ieho m\u00f3dneho domu Bergdorf Goodman na Piatej Avenue v\u00a0New Yorku, ktor\u00fd za\u010dal pred\u00e1va\u0165 jeho zna\u010dku.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-13662 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-300x223.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"223\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-300x223.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-1024x762.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-768x571.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-1536x1142.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/muz1-2048x1523.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Elektri\u010dka zvan\u00e1 t\u00fa\u017eba <\/strong><\/p>\n<p>O\u00a0prehliadku mlad\u00e9ho b\u00farliv\u00e1ka v lond\u00fdnskej Olympii v\u00a0roku 1985 bol tak\u00fd z\u00e1ujem, \u017ee ju musel urobi\u0165 na dvakr\u00e1t. V\u00a0publiku sedela aj Vivienne Westwood, s\u00a0ktorou ho m\u00f3dni novin\u00e1ri Galliana za\u010dali porovn\u00e1va\u0165. Ona sama na margo toho glosovala: \u201eNikdy by mi nenapadlo, \u017ee niekto dovedie moje n\u00e1pady a\u017e tak \u010faleko.\u201c V\u00a0\u010fal\u0161ej kolekcii Padl\u00ed anjeli definoval Galliano z\u00e1kladn\u00e9 piliere svojej neskor\u0161ej kari\u00e9ry: r\u00f4zne v\u00fdstrednosti v\u00a0m\u00f3de poda\u0165 e\u0161te v\u00fdstrednej\u0161ie, in\u0161pirova\u0165 sa u\u00a0in\u00fdch n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rov, pohra\u0165 sa s\u00a0ich n\u00e1padmi ako ma\u010dka s\u00a0my\u0161ou, da\u0165 im \u201enov\u00fd strih, nov\u00fa farbu, zauj\u00edmav\u00fa \u00fapravu, jednoducho, vtisn\u00fa\u0165 im svoju pe\u010da\u0165.\u201c Na\u0161li sa aj tak\u00ed, ktor\u00ed in\u0161pir\u00e1ciu modelmi Vivienne Westwood nazvali oby\u010dajn\u00fdm plagi\u00e1tom, kv\u00f4li \u010domu Galliano vyplakal more s\u013az. Maloobchodn\u00edci mali zasa probl\u00e9m, \u017ee jeho modely, s\u00edce kr\u00e1sne a \u017eiaduce, z\u00e1kazn\u00ed\u010dkam nesedeli a museli ich d\u00e1va\u0165 pre\u0161\u00edva\u0165 \u010di\u00a0r\u00f4zne individu\u00e1lne upravova\u0165. Napokon sponzorovi Johannovi Brunovi do\u0161li peniaze, a\u00a0tak ukon\u010dil ich partnerstvo. To bol prv\u00fd krach Gallianovho podniku. Vo svojej kari\u00e9re ich za\u017eil nieko\u013eko. Ocitol sa na mizine, nemohol si dovoli\u0165 ani pren\u00e1jom, presp\u00e1val u\u00a0priate\u013eov, kde sa dalo&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Roden\u00fd D\u00e1n Ole Peder Bertelsen, obchodn\u00edk s\u00a0ropou ako druh\u00fd sponzor vsadil na zna\u010dku John Galliano. Pred podpisom zmluvy bol v\u0161ak n\u00e1vrh\u00e1r po\u017eiadan\u00fd, aby sa \u201eumravnil\u201c, trochu sp\u00fatal svoju kreativitu a\u00a0navrhoval pr\u00edstupnej\u0161iu, komer\u010dnej\u0161iu m\u00f3du, ktor\u00fa by si mohla obliec\u0165 napr\u00edklad i jeho man\u017eelka Prue. Galliano na to k\u00fdvol, ale aj tak si robil po svojom a\u00a0za prehliadky utr\u00e1cal nekres\u0165ansk\u00e9 peniaze. Zmluvu podp\u00edsal na p\u00e4\u0165 rokov, tak sa c\u00edtil siln\u00fd. Na\u0161iel si priate\u013ea, m\u00f3dny dizajn\u00e9r Jasper Conran, ktor\u00e9ho modely nosila princezn\u00e1 Diana, bol synom zn\u00e1meho britsk\u00e9ho dizajn\u00e9ra Terencea Conrana. Pres\u0165ahoval sa do Jasperovho s\u00eddla v Regent&#8217;s parku, pred rodinou v\u0161ak svoju homosexualitu pr\u00edsne tajil. Ukrutne sa b\u00e1l otca, a\u00a0tak Galliano star\u0161\u00ed odi\u0161iel na ve\u010dn\u00fd odpo\u010dinok bez toho, aby vedel, \u017ee jeho syn je gej. S\u00a0Jasperom tajne s\u00faperili, ke\u010f sa v\u0161ak na prehliadkov\u00e9 m\u00f3lo dostala kolekcia in\u0161pirovan\u00e1 divadelnou hrou Tennessee Williamsa Elektri\u010dka zvan\u00e1 t\u00fa\u017eba, John mal jednozna\u010dne navrch. Kolekcia Blanche DuBois (hlavn\u00e1 hrdinka hry) zafungovala ako zlat\u00e9 eldor\u00e1do, objedn\u00e1vky od maloobchodn\u00edkov sa vy\u0161plhali na \u0161tvorn\u00e1sobok minulej kolekcie a\u00a0Gallianove romantick\u00e9 last\u00farov\u00e9 \u0161aty z\u00a0bielej organzy, pov\u00fd\u0161ili na jeden z\u00a0ikonick\u00fdch m\u00f3dnych k\u00faskov (dnes s\u00fa vystaven\u00e9 v lond\u00fdnskom Victoria a\u00a0Albert Museum). John na rozdiel od svojho rivala Alexandra McQueena si v\u0161ak nikdy s\u00e1m nesadol za \u0161ijac\u00ed stroj, nikdy nek\u013ea\u010dal na zemi pri figur\u00edne a\u00a0ne\u0161pendlil okraje sukne. Za v\u00fdsledn\u00fa realiz\u00e1ciu svojho n\u00e1padu mohol \u010fakova\u0165 \u0161ikovnej striha\u010dke a divadelnej kostym\u00e9rke Karen Crichton, ktor\u00e1 dok\u00e1zala zhmotni\u0165 jeho v\u00edziu last\u00farovej sukne &#8211; vytvorila ju odstup\u0148ovan\u00fdm vrstven\u00edm desiatok \u0161ikmo strihan\u00fdch pruhov l\u00e1tky, pripom\u00ednaj\u00facich dr\u00e1\u017eky na mu\u0161li. V nasleduj\u00facej kolekcii potom predstavil svoje emblematick\u00e9 \u0161aty s\u00a0uhloprie\u010dnym strihom, ale ani to nebol jeho vyn\u00e1lez. V 30. rokoch tzv. \u0161ikm\u00fd strih, zn\u00e1my u\u017e od stredoveku, presl\u00e1vila franc\u00fazska m\u00f3dna n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rka Madeleine Vionnet. Uhloprie\u010dne \u0161aty sa kr\u00e1sne vyn\u00edmali na fotk\u00e1ch \u0161t\u00edhlych modeliek, ale ku skuto\u010dn\u00fdm \u017een\u00e1m bol tento strih nemilosrdn\u00fd &#8211; odha\u013eoval ka\u017ed\u00fa nedokonalos\u0165, ka\u017ed\u00fd fald\u00edk navy\u0161e \u010di nepatri\u010dn\u00fd z\u00e1hyb na tele. Gallianovi to v\u0161ak bolo jedno. \u201e\u017dena, \u010do si oble\u010die moje \u0161aty, by mala by\u0165 py\u0161n\u00e1 ako p\u00e1v a\u00a0pod\u013ea toho sa aj pohybova\u0165,\u201c trval na svojom. To u\u017e i jemu poriadne nar\u00e1stol hrebienok. \u017dil v\u00a0bubline svojich pochlebova\u010dov, vo svojej fant\u00e1zii mimo re\u00e1lny svet, spr\u00e1val sa pov\u00fd\u0161ene, \u013eu\u010fom sa posmieval a\u00a0\u0161k\u013eabil za chrbtom, hocikoho zniesol pod \u010diernu zem len preto, \u017ee sa mu nep\u00e1\u010dil a\u00a0bol \u201e\u0161kared\u00fd\u201c. Ist\u00e1 kolegy\u0148a to zhrnula dvoma vetami: \u201ePokia\u013e \u0161lo o\u00a0neho, bol najlep\u0161\u00ed. V\u0161etci ostatn\u00ed boli nuly.\u201c M\u00f3dne prehliadky za\u010d\u00ednal s\u00a0dvojhodinov\u00fdm oneskoren\u00edm, bez oh\u013eadu na to, ak\u00e9 veli\u010diny m\u00f3dy sedeli v\u00a0prv\u00fdch radoch. On sa vyn\u00edmal nad v\u0161etk\u00fdmi.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Tak bl\u00edzko k dokonalosti<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Lond\u00fdn naz\u00fdval mrcinou (\u201eNenapredoval som tam, nezlep\u0161oval som sa.\u201c), t\u00fa\u017eil po Par\u00ed\u017ei, Par\u00ed\u017e bol predsa svetov\u00e9 mesto m\u00f3dy (\u201eLen tam som mohol pokra\u010dova\u0165 vo svojej kari\u00e9re.\u201c). Par\u00ed\u017e ho posunul aj v\u00a0t\u00fa\u017ebe robi\u0165 haute couture, ve\u013ek\u00fa m\u00f3du. Ako mu poradil \u010fal\u0161\u00ed z\u00a0radu jeho sponzorov, v\u00a0Par\u00ed\u017ei sa mus\u00ed odp\u00fata\u0165 od svojho anglick\u00e9ho punkov\u00e9ho dedi\u010dstva: \u201eMus\u00ed\u0161 presta\u0165 robi\u0165 handry. Tvoja tvorba mus\u00ed by\u0165 luxusn\u00e1&#8230; Haute couture vo Franc\u00fazsku znamen\u00e1 ducha, techniku strihu, \u0161itie i\u00a0dokon\u010denie. Je to cel\u00fd vzdel\u00e1vac\u00ed syst\u00e9m.\u201c Galliano pochopil a\u00a0za\u010dal pracova\u0165 na svojom \u201enovom glamoure\u201c. V\u00a0Par\u00ed\u017ei debutoval prehliadkou jese\u0148-zima 1990\/91 ako 29-ro\u010dn\u00fd. In\u0161piroval sa \u017eenami na motork\u00e1ch, \u201es\u00fa to modern\u00e9 \u017eeny, ktor\u00e9 maj\u00fa svoj \u017eivot pevne v\u00a0ruk\u00e1ch\u201c. Oslavn\u00e9 recenzie okomentoval slovami: \u201eVedel som, \u017ee v Par\u00ed\u017ei dok\u00e1\u017eem uskuto\u010dni\u0165 svoje sny.\u201c A\u00a0skuto\u010dne ich plnil. Budoval si svoje meno a\u00a0\u0161iel na to cestou (pod\u013ea vyjadrenia niektor\u00fdch kritikov) \u201edokonal\u00e9ho stelesnenia absurdnej teatr\u00e1lnosti\u201c, ktor\u00fa nesk\u00f4r u\u00a0Diora doviedol a\u017e do \u00faplnej krajnosti. Pre prehliadku jar-leto 1994 rozpracoval pr\u00edbeh ruskej princeznej, ktor\u00e1 m\u00e1 predkov v\u00a0\u0160k\u00f3tsku a\u00a0teraz utek\u00e1 pred komunistickou revol\u00faciou do svojej domoviny. M\u00f3dna show za\u010dala za zvukov mohutn\u00e9ho vytia vlkov, modelky v\u00a0priliehav\u00fdch sak\u00e1ch v\u00a0\u0161t\u00fdle 18. storo\u010dia, vo zvodn\u00fdch nes\u00famern\u00e9 uhloprie\u010dne strihnut\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch a v\u00a0korzetoch s\u00a0nemilosrdne stla\u010den\u00fdmi \u0148adrami poz\u00e9rsky faj\u010dili na p\u00f3diu a\u00a0ukazovali fotografom svoje pozadie \u201eTak\u00fa prehliadku e\u0161te nikto nikdy nevidel,\u201c p\u00edsala novin\u00e1rka Dana Thomas, \u201ev\u00a0Par\u00ed\u017ei, v Lond\u00fdne ani nikde.\u201c<\/p>\n<p>Galliano nutne potreboval investora a\u00a0na\u0161iel ho, ke\u010f sa do veci vlo\u017eila Anna Wintour, \u0161\u00e9fredaktorka americkej ed\u00edcie Vogue, u\u017e vtedy mimoriadne vplyvn\u00e1 osobnos\u0165. Pozvala Johna do New Yorku, objavila sa s\u00a0n\u00edm na nieko\u013ek\u00fdch ve\u010dierkoch, hodila udi\u010dku a zalovila v\u00a0t\u00fdch spr\u00e1vnych rybn\u00edkoch. Nov\u00fd investor, bank\u00e1r John Bult, finan\u010dne za\u0161t\u00edtil jeho prehliadku, pre ktor\u00fa si Galliano po\u017ei\u010dal s\u00fakromn\u00fd pal\u00e1c S\u00e3o Schlumberg, zn\u00e1mej patr\u00f3nky a\u00a0zberate\u013eky umenia. Prehliadku zadefinoval ako \u201ecouture zo 40. rokov 20. storo\u010dia spojen\u00fa s\u00a0japonsk\u00fdm kabukim\u201c. Prest\u00ed\u017e jej vtisla aj prv\u00e1 liga modeliek, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fahlasili, \u017ee bud\u00fa pracova\u0165 zadarmo: Naomi v\u00a0sat\u00e9nov\u00fdch nohaviciach s\u00a0prepychov\u00fdm norkov\u00fdm pl\u00e9dom, Linda v\u00a0\u010diernom \u017eakete kimonov\u00e9ho strihu, Christy v\u00a0ru\u017eov\u00fdch sat\u00e9nov\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch bez ramienok, Kate v\u00a0prieh\u013eadnom ru\u017eovom kimone&#8230; Lond\u00fdnske Sunday Times nap\u00edsali, \u017ee prehliadka bola \u201etak bl\u00edzko k\u00a0dokonalosti, ako sa len d\u00e1 dosta\u0165\u201c.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-13663\" src=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s260-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Bombastick\u00e9 ako Hollywood<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Gallianov \u00faspech bol neprehliadnute\u013en\u00fd, prehliadka v\u00a0pal\u00e1ci S\u00e3o Schlumberg up\u00fatala pozornos\u0165 aj \u201evlka v\u00a0ka\u0161m\u00edre\u201c, ako sa hovorilo franc\u00fazskemu podnikate\u013eovi Bernardovi Arnaultovi. Ten do svojej spolo\u010dnosti s\u00a0luxusn\u00fdm tovarom LVMH (Louis Vuitton Mo\u00ebt Hennessy) skupoval domy sl\u00e1vnych m\u00f3dnych n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rov, ktor\u00e9 dovtedy viedli ich zakladatelia, s\u00a0cie\u013eom prebudova\u0165 ich na glob\u00e1lne korpor\u00e1cie. Mali sa z\u00a0nich sta\u0165 lifestylov\u00e9 zna\u010dky prostredn\u00edctvom r\u00f4znych licenci\u00ed pr\u00edstupnej\u0161ie pre \u0161irok\u00e9 publikum, schopn\u00e9 generova\u0165 obrovsk\u00e9 zisky. Ako prv\u00fd k\u00fapil zdevastovan\u00fd m\u00f3dny dom Christian Dior, ktor\u00fd v\u00a0roku 1984 st\u00e1l pred krachom a mal amb\u00edcie spravi\u0165 z\u00a0neho vlajkov\u00fa lo\u010f svojej spolo\u010dnosti. Prv, ne\u017e do \u010dela Diora postavil Galliana, pon\u00fakol mu miesto kreat\u00edvneho riadite\u013ea v\u00a0starobylom dome m\u00f3dy Givenchy, ktor\u00fd viedol aristokrat Hubert de Givenchy. Galliano sa chopil pr\u00edle\u017eitosti a\u00a0Givenchy vtisol pe\u010da\u0165 svojho nov\u00e9ho glamouru. Ke\u010f sa ho Dana Thomas sp\u00fdtala, ako sa modern\u00e1 spolo\u010dnos\u0165 s\u00a0minimalistick\u00fdm vkusom vysporiada s\u00a0Gallianovou novou \u201eretro ok\u00e1zalos\u0165ou\u201c, odpovedal jej: \u201ePod\u013ea m\u0148a s\u00fa \u017eeny&#8230; unaven\u00e9 z\u00a0toho, \u017ee sa schov\u00e1vaj\u00fa pod v\u0161etk\u00fdm t\u00fdm beztvar\u00fdm oble\u010den\u00edm a\u00a0chc\u00fa sa vr\u00e1ti\u0165 ku\u00a0\u0161trukt\u00fare. P\u00e1s, boky, prsia&#8230; R\u00e1d pova\u017eujem svoje \u0161aty za zmyseln\u00e9, sk\u00f4r ne\u017e otvorene sexu\u00e1lne. Zmyseln\u00e9 v\u00a0strihu, zvolenej l\u00e1tke, v\u00a0tom, ako s\u00fa tvarovan\u00e9.\u201c A klepol klinec po hlavi\u010dke, m\u00f3da bola v\u017edy svetom fant\u00e1zie a\u00a0magick\u00e9ho k\u00fazla, umen\u00edm i\u00a0divadlom z\u00e1rove\u0148, oble\u010denie ako tak\u00e9 malo praktick\u00fd \u00fa\u010del, ale m\u00f3da, podobne ako umeleck\u00e9 dielo vystaven\u00e9 v\u00a0Louvri, mala vzbudzova\u0165 em\u00f3cie a\u00a0s\u00fdti\u0165 \u013eudsk\u00fa t\u00fa\u017ebu po kr\u00e1se. Pre dom Givenchy, ktor\u00fd dovtedy \u0161il pre seri\u00f3zne d\u00e1my v\u00a0rokoch, bol pr\u00edchod korz\u00e1ra z\u00a0Gibralt\u00e1ru s\u00a0dredmi na hlave poriadny \u0161ok. Jeho rozmary nadob\u00fadali pitoreskn\u00e9 rozmery, k\u00a0\u013eu\u010fom, ktor\u00ed mu v\u00a0za\u010diatkoch nezi\u0161tne pom\u00e1hali, sa spr\u00e1val ako k\u00a0otrokom. Mnoh\u00ed to nezniesli a\u00a0odi\u0161li. \u201eBolo to ako pracova\u0165 pre kr\u00e1\u013ea Slnko,\u201c nechala sa po\u010du\u0165 jedna z\u00a0asistentiek. S\u00a0rast\u00facim \u00faspechom a\u00a0popularitou r\u00e1stla\u00a0i jeho m\u00e1rnivos\u0165, tr\u00e1vil\u00a0hodiny v\u00a0beauty sal\u00f3noch na mas\u00e1\u017each a\u00a0depil\u00e1ci\u00e1ch, d\u00e1val si lakoval nechty a zo v\u0161etk\u00e9ho najviac miloval svoje fotografie.<\/p>\n<p>Jeho prv\u00e1 prehliadka pre Givenchy za\u010dala v\u00a0\u0161t\u00fdle rozpr\u00e1vky o princeznej na hr\u00e1\u0161ku (dve modelky v\u00a0z\u00e1plave nariasen\u00fdch sukn\u00ed sa klb\u010dili na obrovskej hromade vank\u00fa\u0161ov) a vyvolala rozpa\u010dit\u00e9 reakcie. N\u00e1vrh\u00e1rovi vy\u010d\u00edtali, \u017ee je pr\u00edli\u0161 historick\u00fd, Arnault v\u0161ak netajil svoju spokojnos\u0165. Zast\u00e1val n\u00e1zor, \u017ee bombastick\u00e9 m\u00f3dne show \u201epom\u00f4\u017eu premeni\u0165 spolo\u010dnos\u0165 na celosvetovo vplyvn\u00fa zna\u010dku\u201c. \u201eGallianove prehliadky sa stali m\u00f3dnou obdobou hollywoodskych megaprodukci\u00ed,\u201c kon\u0161tatovala Dana Thomas, \u201epodobne ako filmy o\u00a0superhrdinoch, ktor\u00e9 podporuj\u00fa in\u00e9 filmy ve\u013ek\u00fdmi ziskami zo vstupn\u00e9ho a\u00a0z predaja s\u00favisiaceho tovaru. Arnault prijal tento obchodn\u00fd model s\u00a0t\u00fdm, \u017ee sprievodn\u00fdm tovarom boli kabelky, r\u00fa\u017ee, slne\u010dn\u00e9 okuliare a\u00a0parfumy.\u201c To, \u010do za\u010dal v\u00a0Givenchy, vycizeloval do perfektn\u00e9ho obchodn\u00e9ho modelu v\u00a0Diorovi. Po p\u00e4tn\u00e1stich mesiacoch us\u00fadil, \u017ee Galliano je pre Givenchy \u201epr\u00edli\u0161 dobr\u00fd\u201c a\u00a0pon\u00fakol mu miesto kreat\u00edvneho riadite\u013ea m\u00f3dneho domu Christian Dior. Franc\u00fazi, ktor\u00ed Dior vn\u00edmali ako svoj n\u00e1rodn\u00fd poklad, reptali, \u017ee v\u00fdtr\u017en\u00edcki Briti ovl\u00e1dli Par\u00ed\u017e. Arnault v\u0161ak trval na svojom: \u201eVybral som anglick\u00fdch n\u00e1vrh\u00e1rov, preto\u017ee vo Franc\u00fazsku nem\u00e1me tak\u00fa \u00farove\u0148 kreativity. Nevytv\u00e1rame m\u00f3du tak\u00e9ho kalibru&#8230; tak\u00fa modern\u00fa, tvoriv\u00fa, s\u00a0tak\u00fdm dobr\u00fd vkusom.\u201c Christian Dior i\u00a0Gabrielle Chanel sa mohli v\u00a0hrobe obraca\u0165&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Bo\u017esk\u00e9 \u0161ialenstvo<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ke\u010f Galliano ako kr\u00e1\u013e Slnko vpl\u00e1val na Avenue Montaigne \u010d\u00edslo 10, sl\u00e1va legend\u00e1rneho domu Dior sa pomaly rozpl\u00fdvala v\u00a0mno\u017estve licenci\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 zna\u010dka pred\u00e1vala v\u0161elikde, len aby sa udr\u017eala nad vodou (v Japonsku dokonca existovali ry\u017eovary Christian Dior), on v\u0161ak mal amb\u00edciu vykresa\u0165 z\u00a0Diora najluxusnej\u0161iu m\u00f3dnu zna\u010dku na svete. A popritom, samozrejme, \u0161okova\u0165 prehliadkami. Sp\u00e1ja\u0165 nespojite\u013en\u00e9, ako uk\u00e1zal hne\u010f v\u00a0prvej kolekcii, v\u00a0ktorej m\u00f3dny odkaz Diorovej m\u00fazy Mitzah Bricard, leopardice vo zvieracom ko\u017euchu, s\u00a0turbanom na hlave a\u00a0vodop\u00e1dom per\u00e1l okolo krku skombinoval s\u00a0hrd\u00fdmi siluetami africk\u00fdch Masajov. Prehliadka predstavila zvodn\u00e9 orient\u00e1lne outfity v\u00fdrazn\u00fdch farieb, biele ko\u017een\u00e9 mini\u0161aty, tylov\u00e9 sukne zo stoviek metrov l\u00e1tky, hlbok\u00e9 rozparky, modelky v\u00a0korzetoch s\u00a0\u0165a\u017ek\u00fdmi masajsk\u00fdmi n\u00e1hrdeln\u00edkmi nemohli d\u00fdcha\u0165 a\u00a0takmer omdlievali. Suzy Menkes z The International Herald Tribune to nazvala \u201ebo\u017esk\u00fdm \u0161ialenstvom\u201c. \u201eM\u00f3da e\u0161te nevidela tak\u00fa hojnos\u0165, extravaganciu a\u00a0smelos\u0165 n\u00e1vrhov,\u201c pokra\u010dovala Dana Thomas. \u201eBolo zjavn\u00e9, \u017ee peniaze nepredstavovali probl\u00e9m, \u017ee Galliano nemal \u017eiadne finan\u010dn\u00e9 a\u00a0tvoriv\u00e9 limity. V\u00fdsledkom bola haute couture na steroidoch, z\u00a0ktorej sa pozvan\u00fdm tajil dych a\u00a0to\u010dila hlava.\u201c Pre Arnaulta predstavovali Gallianove m\u00f3dne prehliadky zlat\u00fd gr\u00e1l. Z\u00a0haute couture, predt\u00fdm s\u00edce vysokej, ale nosite\u013enej m\u00f3dy pre bohat\u00e9 aristokratky, sa st\u00e1val marketingov\u00fd n\u00e1stroj na oslovenie \u010do naj\u0161ir\u0161ieho publika, ktor\u00e9 si potom prostredn\u00edctvom parfumu, r\u00fa\u017eu na pery \u010di \u0161atky mohlo dovoli\u0165 k\u00fapi\u0165 k\u00fasok dovtedy pre\u0148 nedosti\u017en\u00e9ho sna. Kuvi\u010die hlasy, \u017ee haute couture sa nedo\u017eije konca tis\u00edcro\u010dia, sklapli. V\u00a0Par\u00ed\u017ei sa dial presn\u00fd opak, vysok\u00e1 m\u00f3da naberala na sile, hoci nie \u010do do po\u010dtu predan\u00fdch r\u00f3b, ale v\u010faka publicite, ktor\u00e1 okolo nej explodovala. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed m\u00ed\u013enik pri\u0161iel vo chv\u00edli, ke\u010f m\u00f3dny dom Dior obliekol here\u010dku Nicol Kidman na cerem\u00f3niu odovzd\u00e1vania Oscarov. Jej r\u00f3ba od\u0161tartovala za\u010diatok \u00e9ry, ktor\u00e1 spojila vysok\u00fa m\u00f3du s\u00a0filmov\u00fdm priemyslom. U\u017e predt\u00fdm najm\u00e4 Gianni Versace objavil moc svetov\u00fdch celebr\u00edt a\u00a0za\u010dal ich na svojich prehliadkach us\u00e1dza\u0165 do prv\u00fdch radov rovno pred objekt\u00edvy fotografov. Arnault v\u00a0tom pokra\u010doval a\u00a0Nicol Kidman zapo\u010dala nov\u00fd hollywoodsky glamour. Na ude\u013eovanie Oscarov v\u00a0roku 1997 (jej man\u017eel Tom Cruise bol nominovan\u00fd za film Jerry Maguire) si vybrala model z\u00a0Diorovej kolekcie haute couture Absinthe &#8211; \u00fazke zeleno\u017elt\u00e9 \u0161aty s vysok\u00fdmi rozparkami lemovan\u00fdmi norkovou ko\u017eu\u0161inou, s efektnou sie\u0165kou chenille na chrbte a\u00a0\u010d\u00ednskou v\u00fd\u0161ivkou. Galliano tlieskal jej odv\u00e1\u017enemu v\u00fdberu, rusovlas\u00e1 Nicol v\u00a0zelenej farbe vyzerala grandi\u00f3zne. \u201ePatrili k\u00a0tomu typu \u0161iat, pri ktor\u00fdch sa \u017eena c\u00edti pocten\u00e1, \u017ee ich m\u00f4\u017ee nosi\u0165,\u201c zaspom\u00ednala nesk\u00f4r Nicol Kidman.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-13664\" src=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1-244x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"244\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1-244x300.jpg 244w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1-832x1024.jpg 832w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1-768x946.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1-1248x1536.jpg 1248w, https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/s100-1.jpg 1462w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 244px) 100vw, 244px\" \/><\/a>Mark\u00edza v\u00a0ko\u017euchu pantera<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Z Galliana sa stala superstar. A\u00a0pod\u013ea toho sa aj choval. K\u013eudne nepri\u0161iel na prest\u00ed\u017enu ve\u010deru poriadan\u00fa \u010dasopisom Vogue, \u010do sa pova\u017eovalo za ur\u00e1\u017eku najhrub\u0161ieho zrna. Potrpel si na kr\u00e1\u013eovsk\u00fa form\u00e1lnos\u0165, nik ku\u00a0nemu nesmel vojs\u0165 neohl\u00e1sen\u00fd, jeho t\u00edm sa s\u0165a\u017eoval na \u0165a\u017ekop\u00e1dnu komunik\u00e1ciu namiesto r\u00fdchlych, operat\u00edvnych rozhodnut\u00ed. Str\u00e1cal kontakt so svetom, nevedel posla\u0165 mail ani vybra\u0165 peniaze z\u00a0bankomatu, nemal vodi\u010dsk\u00fd preukaz, v\u0161ade ho vozila limuz\u00edna so \u0161of\u00e9rom. Najal si osobn\u00e9ho tr\u00e9nera, ktor\u00fd \u201eurobil Tine Turner nohy\u201c a ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no s\u00a0n\u00edm behal,\u00a0s\u00a0\u010fal\u0161\u00edm cvi\u010dil v\u00a0posil\u0148ovni a\u00a0okrem omamn\u00fdch l\u00e1tok a alkoholu\u00a0experimentoval s\u00a0r\u00f4znymi di\u00e9tami. U\u017e\u00edval si sl\u00e1vu, o\u00a0akej ani nesn\u00edval, peniaze, ktor\u00fdch bolo v\u017edy dos\u0165 a absol\u00fatnu slobodu v\u00a0tvorbe. A\u00a0priatelil sa len s\u00a0pochlebova\u010dmi.<\/p>\n<p>M\u00f3dnu show jese\u0148\/zima 1997 v\u00a0botanick\u00fdch z\u00e1hrad\u00e1ch Parc de Bagatelle koncipoval ako poctu Diorovi a jeho l\u00e1ske k\u00a0z\u00e1hradn\u00ed\u010deniu. Hostia sedeli akoby v sklen\u00edku s\u00a0kri\u0161t\u00e1\u013eov\u00fdmi lustrami, na p\u00f3diu sa vyn\u00edmala rozpr\u00e1vkov\u00e1 poste\u013e \u0160\u00edpkovej Ru\u017eenky a\u00a0zem bola posiata z\u00e1plavou okvetn\u00fdch l\u00edstkov ru\u017e\u00ed. \u0160pi\u00f3nka Mata Hari sa striedala s\u00a0prostit\u00fatkami maliara Toulouse-Lautreca, noblesn\u00e9 d\u00e1my\u00a0Belle \u00c9poque s Afri\u010dankami v\u00a0domorod\u00fdch pl\u00e1\u0161\u0165och kme\u0148a Ndebele, na p\u00f3diu sa premleli r\u00f4zne storo\u010dia, epochy, \u0161t\u00fdly a\u00a0kult\u00fary, bola to pastva pre o\u010di, n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 divadeln\u00e1 show, ale \u010do to m\u00e1, dopekla, spolo\u010dn\u00e9 so \u017eenami dne\u0161ka, p\u00fdtali sa m\u00f3dni novin\u00e1ri. Galliano odignoroval v\u0161etku kritiku a\u00a0rok nato v\u00a0opere Garnier zinscenoval najve\u013ekolepej\u0161iu m\u00f3dnu show v\u0161etk\u00fdch \u010dias, zdobilo ju 20.000 ru\u017e\u00ed. Nechal sa in\u0161pirova\u0165 Luisou Casati, talianskou mark\u00edzou, jednou z\u00a0najextravagantnej\u0161\u00edch \u017eien svojej doby, ktor\u00e1 sa o\u00a0polnoci zvykla prech\u00e1dza\u0165 po Ben\u00e1tkach v\u00a0ko\u017euchu pantera na holom tele, sprev\u00e1dzan\u00e1 p\u00e1rom chrtov s\u00a0diamantov\u00fdmi obojkami. \u201e\u017diadna fant\u00e1zia nie je pre neho nemo\u017en\u00e1,\u201c zhodli sa novin\u00e1ri, vo Women&#8217;s Wear Daily si v\u0161ak povzdychli, \u017ee to bola sk\u00f4r \u201em\u00fazejn\u00e1 v\u00fdstava\u201c (niekto pou\u017eil aj v\u00fdraz \u201ecirkus\u201c) a\u00a0\u017ee Galliano nedok\u00e1\u017ee da\u0165 m\u00f3dnemu domu \u201emodern\u00fa tv\u00e1r\u201c. Po opere Garnier nasledovali \u010fal\u0161ie megalomansk\u00e9 prehliadky, ako napr\u00edklad t\u00e1 na \u017eelezni\u010dnom n\u00e1stupi\u0161ti, \u0161mrncnut\u00e1 Marokom, s tonami navezen\u00e9ho ru\u017eov\u00e9ho piesku a\u00a0staro\u017eitnou lokomot\u00edvou, ktor\u00e1 na m\u00f3lo prifu\u010dala tak, \u017ee pretrhla obrovsk\u00fa oponu a\u00a0za \u0148ou sa valil h\u00faf polonah\u00fdch Indi\u00e1nov. Recenzie? Suzy Menkes sa vyjadrila, \u017ee \u0161lo \u201eo bl\u00e1zniv\u00fa zmes miest a\u00a0\u010dasov, ktor\u00e1 pretv\u00e1ra Gallianove prehliadky do ve\u013ekolep\u00fdch, ale v\u00a0z\u00e1sade absurdn\u00fdch ma\u0161karn\u00fdch ve\u010dierkov\u201c.\u00a0Women&#8217;s Wear Daily e\u0161te pritvrdil a\u00a0op\u00e4\u0165 sa p\u00fdtal: \u201eKde s\u00fa \u0161aty? Skuto\u010dn\u00e9 \u0161aty, ktor\u00e9 sa daj\u00fa k\u00fapi\u0165, povesi\u0165 do skrine a\u00a0nosi\u0165?\u201c<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Simonetta Zalov\u00e1<\/p>\n<p>foto Profimedia<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>Cel\u00fd \u010dl\u00e1nok si pre\u010d\u00edtate v novembrovom \u010d\u00edsle MIAU (2025)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; \u201eChcem, aby \u013eudia zabudli na \u00fa\u010dty za elektrinu, na zamestnanie, na v\u0161etko. Je \u010das na fant\u00e1ziu. M\u00f4j cie\u013e je vlastne \u00faplne jednoduch\u00fd: ke\u010f sa mu\u017e pozrie na \u017eenu v\u00a0niektor\u00fdch mojich \u0161atoch, chcem, aby si v\u00a0duchu povedal: &#8218;Mus\u00edm ju ma\u0165!&#8218; Pod\u013ea m\u0148a si ka\u017ed\u00e1 \u017eena zasl\u00fa\u017ei by\u0165 \u017eiaduca. Chcem toho sn\u00e1\u010f pr\u00edli\u0161?\u201c Napriek nesl\u00e1vnemu koncu [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":13660,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10,149],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13659","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-muz","category-november-2025"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13659","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13659"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13659\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13665,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13659\/revisions\/13665"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13660"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13659"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13659"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13659"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}