{"id":2618,"date":"2016-05-09T09:58:31","date_gmt":"2016-05-09T07:58:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/?p=2618"},"modified":"2016-05-09T09:58:31","modified_gmt":"2016-05-09T07:58:31","slug":"riwaa-nerona-korzetierka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/riwaa-nerona-korzetierka\/","title":{"rendered":"Riwaa Nerona – Korzeti\u00e9rka"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Pra\u017esk\u00e1 korzeti\u00e9rka, tvoriaca pod umeleck\u00fdm menom Riwaa Nerona, nos\u00ed korzet od svojich osemn\u00e1stich rokov a\u00a0takmer odvtedy sa \u0161itiu korzetov venuje profesion\u00e1lne. Ke\u010f\u017ee sa zaober\u00e1 aj \u0161t\u00fadiom hist\u00f3rie spodnej bielizne a korzetov, k tomuto rafinovan\u00e9mu k\u00fasku oble\u010denia pristupuje rovnak\u00fdm dielom s\u00a0v\u00e1\u0161\u0148ou i\u00a0rozumom.<\/p>\n

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\"etc2\"<\/a>Hoci korzet veleb\u00ed ako n\u00e1stroj, ktor\u00fd dok\u00e1\u017ee vykresa\u0165 kr\u00e1snu \u017eensk\u00fa siluetu a so\u0161n\u00e9 dr\u017eanie tela, nes\u00fa\u0165a\u017e\u00ed sama so sebou, \u010do sa ubrat\u00fdch centimetrov t\u00fdka a\u00a0nijako sa netaj\u00ed t\u00fdm, \u017ee hlavne v\u00a0za\u010diatkoch nosenia jej korzet dal riadne zabra\u0165. \u201eKorzet je pre m\u0148a \u017eivotn\u00fd \u0161t\u00fdl,\u201c hovor\u00ed Riwaa a z\u00e1rove\u0148 dod\u00e1va, \u017ee hoci zo\u0161nurovan\u00e1 v\u00a0korzete c\u00edti sa absol\u00fatne slobodne, lebo korzet je aktom jej slobodnej vo\u013eby. A\u00a0rovnako tak \u00a0aj stoviek spokojn\u00fdch z\u00e1kazn\u00ed\u010dok. O\u00a0pr\u00e1cu n\u00fadzu nem\u00e1, pr\u00e1ve naopak. Ak by ste sa rozhodli da\u0165 si u\u00a0nej u\u0161i\u0165 korzet na mieru, kv\u00f4li mno\u017estvu objedn\u00e1vok je aktu\u00e1lna \u010dakacia doba: osem mesiacov!<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Korzetom praje najm\u00e4 s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00e1 gotick\u00e1 subkult\u00fara, dostali ste sa k\u00a0nim touto cestou aj vy? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Kult\u00fara gotickej sc\u00e9ny je mi ve\u013emi bl\u00edzka, av\u0161ak prv\u00fd korzet, ktor\u00fd som si u\u0161ila, sk\u00f4r s\u00favisel s estetick\u00fdm vn\u00edman\u00edm vlastn\u00e9ho tela. Chcela som skr\u00e1tka umocni\u0165 e\u0161te viac svoje \u017eensk\u00e9 krivky. Bola to cesta k vlastn\u00e9mu vizu\u00e1lnemu vyjadreniu.<\/p>\n

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\u201eEros m\u00f3dy znamen\u00e1, \u017ee si zvol\u00edme, \u010do odhal\u00edme a\u00a0\u010do schov\u00e1me,\u201c vyhl\u00e1sila Vivienne Westwood, ktor\u00e1 korzety miluje. S\u00fahlas\u00edte?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Za erotick\u00e9 pova\u017eujem v\u0161etko, \u010do je osobn\u00e9. Milujem transparentnos\u0165 nylonu, hebkos\u0165 hodv\u00e1bu a polopriesvitnos\u0165 \u010dipiek. Pravdou je, \u017ee rada pou\u017e\u00edvam \u201epr\u00e1dlov\u00fd\u201c \u0161t\u00fdl. Za zvodn\u00e9 v\u0161ak pova\u017eujem i\u00a0\u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 puzdrov\u00e9 \u0161aty a klasick\u00fd kancel\u00e1rsky look. Z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed na tom, ak\u00fd druh zvodnosti chce nosite\u013eka svoj\u00edm odevom vystihn\u00fa\u0165. Osobne nem\u00e1m pr\u00edli\u0161 rada nosenie korzetu ako vrchn\u00fd odev, na druhej strane sa v\u0161ak nebr\u00e1nim tomu, aby bolo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee korzet je s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou cel\u00e9ho odevu ako spodn\u00e1 bielize\u0148.<\/p>\n

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Slovo korzet je zdrobneninou starofranc\u00fazskeho \u201ecors\u201c, teda telo…<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hoci sa to nezd\u00e1, prv\u00e9 korzety boli vyroben\u00e9 ako ochrana p\u00e1su proti otlaku krinol\u00edn a\u00a0\u0165a\u017ek\u00fdch sukn\u00ed. P\u00f4vodne sa korzet volal aj \u201etielko s kosticami\u201c. Kostice pom\u00e1hali predch\u00e1dza\u0165 po\u0161kodeniu p\u00e1su, lebo na p\u00e1se visela cel\u00e1 v\u00e1ha \u0165a\u017ekej sukne a krinol\u00edny. Tak\u00e9 podmienky pre nosenie odevu si dnes u\u017e ani nevieme predstavi\u0165. To, \u017ee \u017eeny \u010dasom za\u010dali korzet vyu\u017e\u00edva\u0165 viac pre modelovanie p\u00e1su a ako prejav svojej m\u00e1rnivosti, je u\u017e celkom in\u00e1 ot\u00e1zka.<\/p>\n

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S\u00fa \u017eeny obe\u0165ou korzetu alebo naopak: korzet stavia \u017eenskos\u0165 na piedest\u00e1l? <\/strong><\/p>\n

V\u017edy z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed na nosite\u013eke. Pokia\u013e \u017eena nos\u00ed korzet pre to, aby sa c\u00edtila \u0161t\u00edhlej\u0161ia, st\u00e1va sa sk\u00f4r obe\u0165ou samej seba. Korzet je len n\u00e1stroj a z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed na n\u00e1s, ako ho pou\u017e\u00edvame. Moje klientky sk\u00f4r t\u00fa\u017eia po umocnen\u00ed svojich kriviek a korzet pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa pre zv\u00fdraznenie siluety.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Je korzet n\u00e1vykov\u00fd?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Rozhodne \u00e1no. Pokia\u013e vezmeme do \u00favahy aj in\u00e9 str\u00e1nky, ne\u017e len estetick\u00e9, vytv\u00e1ra predov\u0161etk\u00fdm ist\u00fd pocit \u201ebezpe\u010dia\u201c. Waist training, alebo cielen\u00e1 model\u00e1cia p\u00e1su, je dlhodob\u00fd proces, ktor\u00fd sa ned\u00e1 ur\u00fdchli\u0165 a\u00a0m\u00e1lokedy sa postupuje po viac ako 2 – 3 cm oproti predo\u0161l\u00e9mu stiahnutiu p\u00e1su. Ur\u010dite ide teda sk\u00f4r o\u00a0pocit v korzete, ne\u017e o z\u00e1vislos\u0165 od st\u00e1le v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ieho stiahnutia p\u00e1su.<\/p>\n

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Vraj je pocit zo\u0161nurovania v\u00a0korzete pr\u00edjemn\u00fd – v\u00a0akom zmysle?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Prirovnala by som ho k pevn\u00e9mu, av\u0161ak jemn\u00e9mu zovretiu mu\u017esk\u00fdch pa\u017e\u00ed. Samozrejme, z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed – ako pre koho. Pokia\u013e je d\u00e1ma na korzet zvyknut\u00e1 a\u00a0tie\u017e m\u00e1 korzet u\u0161it\u00fd na mieru, potom by nemalo doch\u00e1dza\u0165 ku zbyto\u010dn\u00fdm otlakom. Ak niekto rob\u00ed waist training, m\u00f4\u017ee sa sta\u0165, \u017ee sa v\u00a0korzete sprvu c\u00edti nepr\u00edjemne, zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165, ak ho m\u00e1 na sebe dlh\u0161ie, ako \u0161es\u0165 hod\u00edn (toto je ale individu\u00e1lne).<\/p>\n

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Pod\u013ea spolo\u010denskej etikety a\u00a0r\u00f4znych d\u00e1mskych brevi\u00e1rov z minulosti, d\u00e1ma by sa vraj nikdy nemala objavi\u0165 pri jedle bez korzetu… <\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00c1no, samozrejme, takto sa tie\u017e nem\u00f4\u017ee sta\u0165, \u017ee d\u00e1ma bude s\u0155ka\u0165 polievku rovno z taniera! (smiech). Nemysl\u00edm si, \u017ee sa d\u00e1 nosen\u00edm korzetu zn\u00ed\u017ei\u0165 pr\u00edjem jedla. Kto chce, ten si svoju porciu rozdel\u00ed na viac drobnej\u0161\u00edch porci\u00ed. Pravdou v\u0161ak je, \u017ee v korzete sa ve\u013emi r\u00fdchlo prejete a m\u00e1te ove\u013ea sk\u00f4r pocit s\u00fdtosti. V\u017edy hovor\u00edm, \u017ee treba konzumova\u0165 sk\u00f4r mal\u00e9 porcie a \u010dastej\u0161ie. Tie\u017e je pr\u00edjemnej\u0161ie vyhn\u00fa\u0165 sa bublinkov\u00fdm n\u00e1pojom.<\/p>\n

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Va\u0161e \u0161t\u00fadio pon\u00faka viacero l\u00ednii a\u00a0desiatky modelov korzetov. M\u00e1te medzi nimi svoj najob\u013e\u00fabenej\u0161\u00ed? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Ve\u013emi rada \u0161ijem korzety pre burleskn\u00e9 tane\u010dnice, lebo vo svojich vyst\u00fapeniach pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa mnoho trblietok, \u010dipiek a luxusn\u00fdch materi\u00e1lov. A\u00a0tie\u017e ob\u013eubuj\u00fa v\u00fdrazn\u00e9 stiahnutie p\u00e1su. Nem\u00e1m sn\u00e1\u010f \u017eiadny korzet, ktor\u00fd by som preferovala, av\u0161ak niektor\u00e9 pova\u017eujem za svoj vlastn\u00fd \u201emasterpiece\u201c. Napr\u00edklad model \u201ePorcelain\u201c sa bude da\u0165 zhliadnu\u0165 na tematickej v\u00fdstave N\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho m\u00fazea. Pr\u00e1ve ten patr\u00ed k\u00a0najpr\u00e1cnej\u0161\u00edm.<\/p>\n

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\u010co znamen\u00e1 model \u201eextr\u00e9mne s\u0165ahovacieho\u201c korzetu?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ak hovor\u00edme konkr\u00e9tne o\u00a0mojich korzetoch, je to model ur\u010den\u00fd pre pokro\u010dil\u00e9 nosite\u013eky. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou \u0161ijem korzety so stiahnut\u00edm p\u00e1su okolo 13% z p\u00f4vodn\u00e9ho obvodu p\u00e1su. Pokro\u010dil\u00e9 nosite\u013eky si potom m\u00f4\u017eu dovoli\u0165 stiahnutie aj\u00a0o\u00a02 – 3 cm viac. Pr\u00edklad: ak m\u00e1 klientka v p\u00e1se 100 cm, tak stiahnutie v korzete je be\u017en\u00e9 o\u00a013 cm, pokia\u013e pre \u0148u pripravujem extr\u00e9mne s\u0165ahovac\u00ed korzet, m\u00f4\u017eem ho u\u0161i\u0165 a\u017e o\u00a016 cm u\u017e\u0161\u00ed v p\u00e1se.
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\u010co v\u0161etko okrem l\u00e1tky potrebujete na vyrobenie korzetu?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Je toho ve\u013ea. Okrem ru\u010dn\u00fdch ihiel, \u0161pendl\u00edkov, \u017eehli\u010dky, \u0161ijacieho stroja, \u0161peci\u00e1lne tvarovan\u00fdch \u017eehliacich dosiek napr\u00edklad i\u00a0br\u00fasku, no\u017enice na plech, kladivo, lis na priechodky a\u00a0\u010fal\u0161ie a\u00a0\u010fal\u0161ie veci. Moje ruky ve\u013emi trpia a mus\u00edm im venova\u0165 zvl\u00e1\u0161tnu starostlivos\u0165 – \u010dasto sa toti\u017e poran\u00edm, ke\u010f\u017ee pri zhotovovan\u00ed korzetu treba ve\u013ek\u00fa fyzick\u00fa silu. V 18. storo\u010d\u00ed z t\u00fdchto d\u00f4vodov korzety vyr\u00e1bali len mu\u017ei.<\/p>\n

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Simonetta Zalov\u00e1<\/p>\n

foto Danny Worm<\/p>\n

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Druh\u00fa desiatku ot\u00e1zok a\u00a0odpoved\u00ed\u00a0n\u00e1jdete v m\u00e1jovom \u010d\u00edsle MIAU (2016)<\/em>
\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Pra\u017esk\u00e1 korzeti\u00e9rka, tvoriaca pod umeleck\u00fdm menom Riwaa Nerona, nos\u00ed korzet od svojich osemn\u00e1stich rokov a\u00a0takmer odvtedy sa \u0161itiu korzetov venuje profesion\u00e1lne. Ke\u010f\u017ee sa zaober\u00e1 aj \u0161t\u00fadiom hist\u00f3rie spodnej bielizne a korzetov, k tomuto rafinovan\u00e9mu k\u00fasku oble\u010denia pristupuje rovnak\u00fdm dielom s\u00a0v\u00e1\u0161\u0148ou i\u00a0rozumom.   Hoci korzet veleb\u00ed ako n\u00e1stroj, ktor\u00fd dok\u00e1\u017ee vykresa\u0165 kr\u00e1snu \u017eensk\u00fa siluetu a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2622,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[13,40],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2618","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-etc","category-maj-2016"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2618","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2618"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2618\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2625,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2618\/revisions\/2625"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2622"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2618"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2618"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2618"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}