{"id":3609,"date":"2016-12-15T10:27:09","date_gmt":"2016-12-15T08:27:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/?p=3609"},"modified":"2016-12-15T10:27:09","modified_gmt":"2016-12-15T08:27:09","slug":"hana-michopulu-kralovna-oblozenych-chlebickov","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/hana-michopulu-kralovna-oblozenych-chlebickov\/","title":{"rendered":"Hana Michopulu – Kr\u00e1\u013eovn\u00e1 oblo\u017een\u00fdch chleb\u00ed\u010dkov"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\"menu-hana\"<\/a><\/p>\n

M\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek p\u00fdchou fastfoodu? Sp\u013a\u0148a po\u017eiadavku r\u00fdchleho ob\u010derstvenia, nie\u010doho mal\u00e9ho pod zub, ale aj jedla, ktor\u00e9 v\u00e1s dostato\u010dne zas\u00fdti? A\u00a0m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 fast food – r\u00fdchle jedlo, ktor\u00e9 dostanete na ulici – kvalitn\u00e9, pripraven\u00e9 bez kompromisov, s\u00a0fant\u00e1ziou a\u00a0l\u00e1skou? M\u00f4\u017ee. Najm\u00e4 ak hovor\u00edme o\u00a0oblo\u017een\u00fdch chleb\u00ed\u010dkoch Hany Michopulu, majite\u013eky pra\u017esk\u00e9ho bistra Sisters.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Kde bolo tam bolo… boli raz v\u00a0na\u0161ej krajine obchody, tzv. lah\u00f4dkarstva, kde ste sa zastavili a zhltli nie\u010do mal\u00e9 pod zub – naj\u010dastej\u0161ie oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek. \u0160unkov\u00fd, sal\u00e1mov\u00fd, syrov\u00fd. S vla\u0161sk\u00fdm \u0161al\u00e1tom, vaj\u00ed\u010dkom a\u00a0vej\u00e1rovitou uhor\u010di\u010dkou, ob\u010das trochu obschnut\u00fd, inokedy naspodku zvlhnut\u00fd, ale… Spom\u00ednate si a\u00a0je v\u00e1m pri tejto spomienke tak nejako pr\u00edjemne pri srdci? E\u0161te chv\u00ed\u013eku si tento pocit vychutnajte, e\u0161te chv\u00ed\u013eo\u010dku… Lebo vz\u00e1p\u00e4t\u00ed pr\u00edde ostr\u00fd strih!<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Rozb\u00edfov\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek so zelerovou remul\u00e1dou, \u017eerucha a\u00a0fritovan\u00e1 cibu\u013eka. Chleb\u00ed\u010dek s\u00a0krevetami a estrag\u00f3novou majon\u00e9zou. S gr\u00e9ckou n\u00e1tierkou z\u00a0\u010dervenej repy, zjemnenej jogurtom, na tom k\u00faso\u010dek kozieho syra, navrchu mal\u00fd\u00a0orie\u0161ok v\u00a0cukrovej ko\u0161ie\u013eke. Vaj\u00ed\u010dkov\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek so\u00a0\u017eeruchou, jeden z\u00a0najob\u013e\u00fabenej\u0161\u00edch. \u201eJe to vlastne n\u00e1tierka na\u0161ej mamy, zvykla ju robi\u0165 cez v\u00edkend, ke\u010f sme boli e\u0161te deti. Raz sme mali v\u00a0bistre prebytok vajec, tak sme urobili vaj\u00ed\u010dkov\u00fa n\u00e1tierku. Z\u00e1kazn\u00edkom tak chutila, \u017ee si ju vy\u017eiadali zaradi\u0165 do st\u00e1lej ponuky.\u201c Dc\u00e9rou, ktor\u00e1 takto \u0161ikovne vyu\u017eila mamin recept, je Hana Michopulu, ktor\u00e1 v\u00a0centre Prahy vybudovala mal\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dkov\u00fd raj – bistro Sisters. Ke\u010f rozm\u00fd\u0161\u013eala, ako sa z\u00a0novin\u00e1rky, zameranej na gastron\u00f3miu a\u00a0organiz\u00e1torky farm\u00e1rskych trhov, prehupn\u00fa\u0165 na druh\u00fd breh, teda\u00a0za\u010da\u0165 o\u00a0jedle nielen p\u00edsa\u0165, ale ho aj vlastnoru\u010dne tvori\u0165, vo\u013eba padla na chleb\u00ed\u010dek.<\/p>\n

\"menu3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Jeho veli\u010denstvo oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek. Kr\u00e1\u013e v\u0161etk\u00fdch lah\u00f4dkarstiev, cis\u00e1r mlie\u010dnych barov, vl\u00e1dca narodeninov\u00fdch a silvestrovsk\u00fdch osl\u00e1v, sp\u00e1sonosn\u00fd posol nez\u00e1\u017eivn\u00fdch sch\u00f4dz\u00ed, pevn\u00fd bod v\u00a0na\u0161om vesm\u00edre r\u00fdchleho ob\u010derstvenia. Jednoducho boss, i\u00a0ke\u010f… Priznajme si, \u017ee v\u00a0trochu nemodernom kv\u00e1dre, frajer, ktor\u00fd v\u0161ak trochu zaspal dobu. Stoj\u00ed zato da\u0165 mu nov\u00fa \u0161ancu? Povznies\u0165 oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek na vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed level, zmeni\u0165 mu imid\u017e, zmodernizova\u0165, apgrejdn\u00fa\u0165, refre\u0161n\u00fa\u0165 toto \u010desko-slovensk\u00e9 n\u00e1rodn\u00e9 dedi\u010dstvo?<\/p>\n

Hana Michopulu na oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek ned\u00e1 dopusti\u0165. \u201eNiektor\u00e9 jedl\u00e1 m\u00e1me ulo\u017een\u00e9 hlboko vo svojom srdci a\u00a0oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek k\u00a0nim ur\u010dite patr\u00ed. M\u00f4\u017eete spozn\u00e1va\u0165 nov\u00e9 veci, ochutn\u00e1va\u0165 tapas \u010di in\u00e9 rafinovan\u00e9 jednohubky, av\u0161ak s\u00a0tapasom ste nevyrastali, nem\u00e1te jeho chu\u0165 ulo\u017een\u00fa vo svojej pam\u00e4ti.\u201c Preto Hanka vsadila na to, k\u00a0\u010domu maj\u00fa \u013eudia citov\u00fd vz\u0165ah. \u010co im je d\u00f4vern\u00e9 zn\u00e1me, v\u0161eobecne ob\u013e\u00faben\u00e9, nie pr\u00edli\u0161 komplikovan\u00e9, jasne zadefinovan\u00e9, ale… interpretovan\u00e9 po novom. Lebo presne o\u00a0tomto je dne\u0161n\u00e1 modern\u00e1 gastron\u00f3mia – o p\u00f4vodn\u00fdch jedl\u00e1ch a\u00a0recept\u00farach, v\u00a0ktor\u00fdch treba zachova\u0165 v\u0161etko hodnotn\u00e9 a\u00a0cenn\u00e9, nastavi\u0165 im v\u0161ak zrkadlo s\u00fa\u010dasnosti, rozihra\u0165 v\u00a0nich modern\u00e9 chute a pr\u00edstupy, vyu\u017ei\u0165 nov\u00e9 kulin\u00e1rske technol\u00f3gie a\u00a0sem-tam to v\u0161etko okoreni\u0165 i nejak\u00fdm t\u00fdm m\u00f3dnym v\u00fdstrelkom. \u201e\u017diadne jedlo nem\u00f4\u017eete pripravova\u0165 sto rokov rovnako. Na\u0161e \u017eivoty sa menia a\u00a0s\u00a0nimi sa menia aj na\u0161e chute.\u201cTak sa v\u00a0Hankinej kuchyni z\u00a0tradi\u010dn\u00e9ho oblo\u017een\u00e9ho chleb\u00ed\u010dka stala modern\u00e1 \u0161t\u00fdlov\u00e1 delikatesa 21. storo\u010dia.<\/p>\n

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Vaj\u00ed\u010dkova n\u00e1tierka <\/strong><\/p>\n

Potrebujeme:<\/strong> 10 vajec, 62,5 g masla, 0,5 ly\u017eice dijonskej hor\u010dice, 60 g cibule nakr\u00e1janej na najjemnej\u0161ie koc\u00f4\u010dky, 20 g pa\u017e\u00edtky nakr\u00e1janej na 1 mm k\u00fasky (neseka\u0165!), so\u013e, mlet\u00e9 \u010dierne korenie, 165 g majon\u00e9zy.<\/p>\n

Pr\u00edprava:<\/strong> Zm\u00e4knut\u00e9 maslo rozmie\u0161ajte dohladka s\u00a0\u017e\u013atkami, so\u013eou a\u00a0koren\u00edm. Pridajte hor\u010dicu a majon\u00e9zu, potom bielky nastr\u00fahan\u00e9 na hrubom str\u00fahadle. \u00daplne nakoniec vmie\u0161ajte cibu\u013eu a pa\u017e\u00edtku.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0\"menu2\"<\/a><\/strong>Najsk\u00f4r te\u00f3ria, potom prax<\/strong><\/p>\n

K\u00fdm Hanka \u201enavrhla\u201c svoj prv\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek, svedomito sa pohr\u00fa\u017eila do \u0161t\u00fadia chleb\u00ed\u010dkol\u00f3gie, sk\u00famala jej z\u00e1kladn\u00e9 z\u00e1konitosti, prebr\u00e1zdila bohat\u00fa a\u00a0rozmanit\u00fa hist\u00f3riu, zabl\u00fadila a\u017e k\u00a0prvorepublikov\u00fdm chleb\u00ed\u010dkom starej Prahy od vyhl\u00e1sen\u00e9ho lah\u00f4dkara Paukerta, nevynechala ani obdobie \u0165a\u017eko sk\u00fa\u0161anej socialistickej chleb\u00ed\u010dkovej \u00e9ry, v\u00a0ktorej hrali pr\u00edm lacn\u00e9 sal\u00e1my, ba dokonca sa vydala za chleb\u00ed\u010dkami aj do sveta – absolvovala \u0161tudijn\u00e9 cesty od Kodane po Viede\u0148 a\u00a0ke\u010f si v\u0161etky nadobudnut\u00e9 inform\u00e1cie, vedomosti a\u00a0sk\u00fasenosti pekne utriedila a\u00a0n\u00e1sledne vyabstrahovala to podstatn\u00e9, vy\u0161lo jej, \u017ee m\u00e1 dve mo\u017enosti. Dve cesty, po ktor\u00fdch sa oplat\u00ed vyda\u0165: na sever, alebo na juh. Cestou talianskej bruscetty, alebo po stop\u00e1ch d\u00e1nskeho sm\u00f8rrebr\u00f8du. Po zrelej \u00favahe si vybrala n\u00e1\u0161mu naturelu bli\u017e\u0161\u00ed seversk\u00fd model: d\u00e1nsky oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek sa toti\u017e v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou pripravuje ako mal\u00e9, samostatn\u00e9, plnohodnotn\u00e9 jedlo. Na rozdiel od \u00a0tapasov\u00fdch jednohubiek, ktor\u00e9 sa sk\u00f4r len tak \u010fobkaj\u00fa k\u00a0v\u00ednu, v\u00fddatn\u00fa oblohu sm\u00f8rrebr\u00f8du tvor\u00ed \u010dasto ryba, vypr\u00e1\u017ean\u00e1 alebo \u00faden\u00e1, pe\u010den\u00e9 m\u00e4so, zelenina \u010di\u00a0r\u00f4zne pickels. Tento koncept \u201emal\u00e9ho jedla\u201c lad\u00ed aj s\u00a0Hankinou predstavou oblo\u017een\u00e9ho chleb\u00ed\u010dka ako kvalitn\u00e9ho reprezentanta fastfoodov\u00e9ho ob\u010derstvenia. V\u00a0jej bistre nejde o\u00a0 vym\u00fd\u0161\u013eanie chleb\u00ed\u010dkov na \u0161peci\u00e1lne pr\u00edle\u017eitosti \u00e0 la kavi\u00e1rov\u00e9 chleb\u00ed\u010dky, ktor\u00e9 sa kedysi pova\u017eovali za absol\u00fatny luxus. Doba, ke\u010f gurm\u00e1ni vyh\u013ead\u00e1vali v\u0161akovak\u00e9 \u0161peci\u00e1lne, zvl\u00e1\u0161tne, exotick\u00e9, \u010dasto aj nedosti\u017en\u00e9 ingrediencie a\u00a0vy\u017e\u00edvali sa v netradi\u010dn\u00fdch kuch\u00e1rskych postupoch (napr\u00edklad v molekul\u00e1rnej gastron\u00f3mii), u\u017e d\u00e1vno minula. \u201eS\u00fa\u010dasn\u00fd trend si raz\u00ed cestu celkom opa\u010dn\u00fdm smerom: \u013eudia sa vracaj\u00fa k\u00a0svojim star\u00fdm dobr\u00fdm receptom a ‚oby\u010dajn\u00fdm‘ surovin\u00e1m, kum\u0161t v\u0161ak spo\u010d\u00edva v\u00a0tom – vedie\u0165 im vtisn\u00fa\u0165 nov\u00fa, akoby pridan\u00fa hodnotu. Mysl\u00edm si, \u017ee tento trend bada\u0165 aj v\u00a0in\u00fdch odboroch.\u201c<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\"Processed<\/a><\/p>\n

Cviklov\u00e1 n\u00e1tierka <\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201eO \u010do hlb\u0161ie klesla v minulosti, o to viac sa dnes vyhrieva v centre ne\u010dakan\u00e9ho z\u00e1ujmu. Opr\u00e1vnene. Je to miestna zelenina, ktor\u00e1 za nami nemus\u00ed cestova\u0165, je skoro a\u017e smie\u0161ne lacn\u00e1 a\u00a0dostanete ju cel\u00fa zimu. Keby sme ju nejedli, bolo by to na pov\u00e1\u017eenie,\u00a0podobne, ako keby Taliani ignorovali paradajky. Je na\u0161a – majme ju radi.\u00a0Ak v\u00e1m celkom nevyhovuje jej zemit\u00e1 chu\u0165, moja rada znie: vyhnite sa v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm kusom a kupujte \u010do najmen\u0161ie.\u201c<\/p>\n

Potrebujeme:<\/strong> 2 mal\u00e9 cvikle, 4 ly\u017eice nahrubo nasekan\u00fdch vla\u0161sk\u00fdch orechov,1 kus star\u0161ieho bieleho pe\u010diva, 2 ly\u017eice v\u00ednneho octu (najlep\u0161ie \u010derven\u00e9ho), 1 rozotret\u00fd str\u00fa\u010dik cesnaku, so\u013e, 1 ly\u017eica bieleho jogurtu (nemus\u00ed by\u0165).<\/p>\n

Pr\u00edprava:<\/strong> Cviklu uvarte dom\u00e4kka, nechajte vychladn\u00fa\u0165, ol\u00fapte a nakr\u00e1jajte na v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie k\u00fasky. Dajte do mix\u00e9ru spolu s nakr\u00e1jan\u00fdm bielym pe\u010divom, octom, cesnakom a so\u013eou. Rozmixujte dohladka. Nakoniec primie\u0161ajte orechy. Ak chcete, m\u00f4\u017eete ju zjemni\u0165 trochou bieleho jogurtu.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Architekt\u00fara chleb\u00ed\u010dka I.: z\u00e1klad <\/strong><\/p>\n

Toto bude asi trochu bolie\u0165, ale dozrel \u010das vyjs\u0165 s\u00a0pravdou von. \u010co tvor\u00ed z\u00e1klad ka\u017ed\u00e9ho oblo\u017een\u00e9ho chleb\u00ed\u010dka? Jeho b\u00e1zu, pevn\u00fa p\u00f4du pod nohami, onen grunt, ktor\u00fd dr\u017e\u00ed cel\u00fa oblohu pevne na svojich pleciach? U\u017e-u\u017e to m\u00e1te na jazyku, ve\u010f kto by odpovedal inak, \u00e1no, je to veka, biely sendvi\u010dov\u00fd chlieb, v\u017edy to tak bolo… Ale v\u00a0bistre Sisters nie je a\u00a0ani nikdy nebude. Tam d\u00e1vaj\u00fa prednos\u0165 p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9mu kv\u00e1skov\u00e9mu chlebu, ktor\u00fd Hanke pod\u013ea jej predst\u00e1v pe\u010die zn\u00e1ma pra\u017esk\u00e1 pek\u00e1re\u0148 Eska. Doba, v\u00a0ktorej \u017eijeme, v\u0161ak vyhl\u00e1sila smrrr\u0165 p\u0161enici a\u00a0lepku! No kto sa m\u00e1 vyzna\u0165 v\u00a0tom mno\u017estve protichodn\u00fdch inform\u00e1ci\u00ed a \u201ezaru\u010den\u00fdch\u201c pr\u00e1vd o\u00a0\u0161kodlivosti t\u00fdch \u010di on\u00fdch potrav\u00edn? \u201eChlieb, ktor\u00fd pou\u017e\u00edvame, sa pripravuje z\u00a0kv\u00e1sku, a\u00a0nie z\u00a0priemyselne vyr\u00e1ban\u00e9ho dro\u017edia,\u201c vysvet\u013euje chleb\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 \u0161\u00e9fka. To znamen\u00e1, \u017ee kv\u00e1sok, ktor\u00fd na rozdiel od dro\u017edia obsahuje viac druhov kvasn\u00fdch bakt\u00e9ri\u00ed, dok\u00e1\u017ee cesto lep\u0161ie prekvasi\u0165, \u010do m\u00e1 za n\u00e1sledok pokles hladiny r\u00f4znych alerg\u00e9nov v\u00a0m\u00fake. Pravdu teda h\u013eadajme niekde uprostred, mnoh\u00e9 intolerancie na p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00fa m\u00faku vznikaj\u00fa z\u00a0toho, \u017ee ju dro\u017edie nedok\u00e1\u017ee dostato\u010dne spracova\u0165 a\u00a0n\u00e1\u0161 metabolizmus prija\u0165. Kv\u00e1skov\u00fd chlieb v\u0161ak nielen lep\u0161ie str\u00e1vime, ale m\u00e1 aj hlb\u0161iu,\u00a0pln\u0161iu chu\u0165. \u201eZ\u00e1rove\u0148 je v\u00fddatnej\u0161\u00ed, d\u00e1te si dva pl\u00e1tky a\u00a0m\u00e1te dos\u0165, ste s\u00fdti,\u201c dod\u00e1va Hanka.<\/p>\n

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Simonetta Zalov\u00e1<\/p>\n

foto Jozef Barinka,\u00a0arch\u00edv Hany Michopulu<\/p>\n

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\u010eal\u0161ie recepty na Hankine n\u00e1tierky si pozrite v\u00a0zimnom dvoj\u010d\u00edsle MIAU (2016)<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  M\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek p\u00fdchou fastfoodu? Sp\u013a\u0148a po\u017eiadavku r\u00fdchleho ob\u010derstvenia, nie\u010doho mal\u00e9ho pod zub, ale aj jedla, ktor\u00e9 v\u00e1s dostato\u010dne zas\u00fdti? A\u00a0m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 fast food – r\u00fdchle jedlo, ktor\u00e9 dostanete na ulici – kvalitn\u00e9, pripraven\u00e9 bez kompromisov, s\u00a0fant\u00e1ziou a\u00a0l\u00e1skou? M\u00f4\u017ee. Najm\u00e4 ak hovor\u00edme o\u00a0oblo\u017een\u00fdch chleb\u00ed\u010dkoch Hany Michopulu, majite\u013eky pra\u017esk\u00e9ho bistra Sisters.   Kde bolo […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3610,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9,48],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3609","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-menu","category-zima-2016"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3609","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3609"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3609\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3625,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3609\/revisions\/3625"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3610"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3609"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3609"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3609"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}