{"id":6759,"date":"2019-06-13T10:09:02","date_gmt":"2019-06-13T08:09:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/?p=6759"},"modified":"2019-06-13T10:09:02","modified_gmt":"2019-06-13T08:09:02","slug":"lisabonska-aferka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/lisabonska-aferka\/","title":{"rendered":"Lisabonsk\u00e1 af\u00e9rka"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Pre cestovate\u013ea, prich\u00e1dzaj\u00faceho od mora, Lisabon, dokonca i\u00a0z dia\u013eky, vyn\u00e1ra sa ako vidina zo sna, zrete\u013ene, oproti jasnej modrej oblohe, ktor\u00fa slnce posv\u00e4cuje jagav\u00fdm zlatom. A\u00a0kupoly, pomn\u00edky, star\u00e9 hrady vy\u010dnievaj\u00fa nad masou domov ako vzdialen\u00ed hl\u00e1snici tohto n\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho s\u00eddla, tohto po\u017eehnan\u00e9ho regi\u00f3nu. <\/em><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Pribli\u017ene tak\u00e9to \u00f3dy spieval na svoje milovan\u00e9 mesto portugalsk\u00fd poet Fernando Pessoa. Na mesto s\u00a0mimoriadnym \u0161armom a\u00a0charizmou, mesto s\u00a0chodn\u00edkmi kriv\u00fdmi a\u00a0hrbo\u013eat\u00fdmi ako \u017eily na ruk\u00e1ch star\u00e9ho moreplavca, s\u00a0budovami ozdoben\u00fdmi zn\u00e1mymi azulejos – dla\u017edi\u010dkami v\u0161etk\u00fdch farieb sveta, na mesto, ktor\u00e9ho kopcovit\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami sa prem\u00e1vaj\u00fa historick\u00e9 elektri\u010dky,\u00a0na mesto, v\u00a0ktorom \u010das d\u00e1vno prestal hra\u0165 svoju \u00falohu. Vojdite do\u0148, nad\u00fdchnite sa a\u00a0prestanete sa pon\u00e1h\u013ea\u0165. Ol\u00e1, vitajte v\u00a0\u010darokr\u00e1snom Lisabone!<\/p>\n

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Raj pre v\u0161etk\u00fdch foodloverov<\/strong><\/p>\n

Poveda\u0165, \u017ee Portugalci maj\u00fa radi jedlo, nesta\u010d\u00ed. Ich l\u00e1ska k\u00a0dobr\u00fdm pokrmom je priam nadrozmern\u00e1 a\u00a0zo v\u0161etk\u00e9ho najviac zbo\u017e\u0148uj\u00fa jedenie pod hol\u00fdm nebom, na \u010derstvom vzduchu a\u00a0v\u00a0spolo\u010dnosti priate\u013eov. Na ra\u0148ajky zbehn\u00fa do hocakej \u00fatulnej pek\u00e1rni\u010dky s\u00a0obsluhou (\u010dasto si d\u00e1vaj\u00fa maslov\u00fd toast, \u0161unkovo-syrov\u00fd sendvi\u010d, d\u017e\u00fas alebo sladk\u00fd kol\u00e1\u010dik, a, samozrejme, k\u00e1vu!), na obed si radi vyhradia hoci aj cel\u00fa hodinu (mnoh\u00e9 re\u0161taur\u00e1cie pon\u00fakaj\u00fa denn\u00e9 menu, menu do dia, alebo jedlo d\u0148a, prato do dia, ktor\u00e9 sa viac oplatia) a\u00a0ve\u010dera im nikdy netrv\u00e1 menej, ako dve \u010di tri hodiny. Medzi hlavn\u00fdmi jedlami podnikaj\u00fa v\u00fdpravy do kaviarn\u00ed za dobrou k\u00e1vou a\u00a0dezertom a\u00a0netreba zab\u00fada\u0165, \u017ee v\u00a0Portugalsku ctia aj poobed\u0148aj\u0161ie (alebo predve\u010dern\u00e9?) ob\u010derstvenie, naz\u00fdvan\u00e9 lanche (lun\u0161). Aj ke\u010f sa zd\u00e1, \u017ee tento kulin\u00e1rsky zvyk poch\u00e1dza z\u00a0anglick\u00e9ho slova lunch, nejde o\u00a0jedenie v\u00a0\u010dase obeda, ale sk\u00f4r o podobnos\u0165 s \u201e\u010dajom o\u00a0piatej\u201c. Lanche m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 \u010dosi \u013eahu\u010dk\u00e9, ale aj honosne extravagantn\u00e9, m\u00f4\u017eu to by\u0165 sendvi\u010de, slan\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de plnen\u00e9 rybac\u00edm m\u00e4som, syry, su\u0161ienky, kol\u00e1\u010diky, \u010derstv\u00e9 ovocie alebo chlieb. V\u0161etko sa zap\u00edja pr\u00e1ve od\u0161\u0165aven\u00fdm d\u017e\u00fasom, k\u00e1vou, \u010dajom, ale pokojne i\u00a0poh\u00e1rom v\u00edna, v\u00a0z\u00e1vislosti od toho, ko\u013eko jedla je na stole a\u00a0ak\u00e1 ve\u013ek\u00e1 ve\u010dera je e\u0161te v\u00a0doh\u013eadne. Portugal\u010dania lanche zbo\u017e\u0148uj\u00fa, preto\u017ee pon\u00faka neform\u00e1lnu pr\u00edle\u017eitos\u0165, ako obja\u0165 priate\u013eov alebo \u010dlenov rodiny, pohosti\u0165 ich doma, ale aj v\u00a0hocakom caf\u00e9. \u201eLanchinho\u201c dokonca miluj\u00fa aj deti, ktor\u00e9 po n\u00e1vrate zo \u0161koly, e\u0161te sk\u00f4r, ako sa pustia do p\u00edsania \u00faloh, u\u017eij\u00fa si najsk\u00f4r zasl\u00fa\u017een\u00e9 ob\u010derstvenie.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Privo\u0148a\u0165 a\u00a0zjes\u0165!<\/strong><\/p>\n

K\u00fdm sa nad\u0161ene vyd\u00e1te do malebn\u00fdch ul\u00edc Lisabonu, mali by ste vedie\u0165, \u010do ur\u010dite nesmiete vynecha\u0165, ak ste sa rozhodli vyh\u013ead\u00e1va\u0165 kulin\u00e1rske z\u00e1\u017eitky. Pokojne ich m\u00f4\u017eete spoji\u0165 aj s\u00a0pozn\u00e1van\u00edm mestsk\u00fdch z\u00e1kut\u00ed, m\u00f4\u017eete sa na strieda\u010dku zastavi\u0165 na dobr\u00e9 jedlo a\u00a0kocha\u0165 sa kr\u00e1snymi v\u00fdh\u013eadmi, m\u00f4\u017eete za\u017ei\u0165 ruch trhov\u00edsk a\u00a0z\u00e1rove\u0148 po\u010d\u00fava\u0165 upokojuj\u00face t\u00f3ny fada, m\u00f4\u017eete v\u00a0jednom momente naplni\u0165 svoj \u0161k\u0155kaj\u00faci \u017eal\u00fadok, ale aj t\u00fa\u017ebu po poznan\u00ed lisabonskej hist\u00f3rie. Ak m\u00e1te na n\u00e1v\u0161tevu tohto mesta len nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed, vedzte, \u017ee v\u0161etky odpor\u00fa\u010dan\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 atrakcie ur\u010dite neobehnete, hladn\u00ed ale stopercentne neostanete…<\/p>\n

Petiscos.<\/strong> Ak viete, \u010do sa mysl\u00ed, ke\u010f sa po \u0161panielsky povie tapas, bude v\u00e1m zrejm\u00e9, \u010do serv\u00edruj\u00fa Portugalci ako petiscos. Ochutn\u00e1te ich v\u00a0r\u00f4znych petisco baroch (niekedy naz\u00fdvan\u00fdch aj petisqueira), v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou vtedy, ke\u010f si k\u00a0v\u00ednu \u017eel\u00e1te len tak \u201ezobka\u0165\u201c mal\u00fd a\u00a0nen\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd snack. Od baru k\u00a0baru sa pon\u00fakaj\u00fa v\u0161akovak\u00e9 kombin\u00e1cie, pokojne od najjednoduch\u0161\u00edch – chleba p\u00e3o a\u00a0ol\u00edv azeitonas a\u017e po zlo\u017eitej\u0161ie, serv\u00edrovan\u00e9 napr\u00edklad ako salada de polvo – \u0161al\u00e1t z\u00a0chobotnice, alebo kroketky pripraven\u00e9 z\u00a0b\u00e1jnej tresky – past\u00e9is de bacalhau.<\/p>\n

K\u00e1va.<\/strong> K\u00e1vi\u010dkomili si v\u00a0Lisabone pr\u00eddu na svoje za ka\u017ed\u00fdch okolnost\u00ed, ak sa v\u0161ak chcete pri s\u0155kan\u00ed svojej pravidelnej d\u00e1vky kofe\u00ednu c\u00edti\u0165 tak trochu ako dom\u00e1ci, mali by ste pozna\u0165 nieko\u013eko miestnych slov\u00ed\u010dok. Portugal\u010dania sa na k\u00e1vu zvol\u00e1vaj\u00fa fr\u00e1zou \u201evamos tomar caf\u00e9\u201c – po\u010fme na k\u00e1vu, ke\u010f v\u0161ak niekde obedujete alebo ve\u010deriate, \u010da\u0161n\u00edk sa s\u00e1m po jedle op\u00fdta, \u010di e\u0161te m\u00e1te chu\u0165 na k\u00e1vu. V\u00fdber tej ide\u00e1lnej je tak trochu alch\u00fdmia, no po kr\u00e1tkej in\u0161trukt\u00e1\u017ei aj tento krok isto hravo zvl\u00e1dnete. Vyp\u00fdtajte si \u201ecaf\u00e9\u201c alebo \u201ebica\u201c, ak t\u00fa\u017eite po klasickom espresse v\u00a0malej \u0161\u00e1lke, naplnenej zhruba do dvoch tret\u00edn. Dvojit\u00e1 d\u00e1vka tejto k\u00e1vy je \u201eduplo\u201c a\u00a0ak si prajete dolia\u0165 \u0161\u00e1lku espressa vodou a\u017e po vrch, poproste o\u00a0\u201ecaf\u00e9 cheio\u201c. Vysok\u00fd poh\u00e1r ve\u013emi mlie\u010dnej k\u00e1vy volaj\u00fa Portugalci \u201egal\u00e3o\u201c a\u00a0\u010dasto \u0148ou zap\u00edjaj\u00fa sladk\u00e9 ra\u0148ajky, obdobn\u00e1, ale s\u00a0rovnak\u00fdm pomerom k\u00e1vy a\u00a0mlieka, je \u201emeia de leite\u201c. \u0160ot\u00edk k\u00e1vy so spenen\u00fdm mliekom sa vol\u00e1 \u201egaroto\u201c a\u00a0ke\u010f si objedn\u00e1te \u201epingado\u201c, dones\u00fa v\u00e1m k\u00e1vu s\u00a0malou tro\u0161kou studen\u00e9ho mlieka na vrchu. K\u00e1va v\u00a0Portugalsku je pomerne lacn\u00e1 (na rozdiel od in\u00fdch eur\u00f3pskych ve\u013ekomiest), pri oby\u010dajnej caf\u00e9 sa zmest\u00edte k\u013eudne aj do jedn\u00e9ho eura a ak si objedn\u00e1te svoje espresso \u201ena stoj\u00e1ka\u201c pri pulte, vyjde v\u00e1s be\u017ene na smie\u0161nych 60 – 70 centov.<\/p>\n

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M\u00e4so v\u00a0tvare gu\u013e\u00f4\u010dok<\/strong><\/p>\n

Lisabon\u010dania m\u00f4\u017eu sedie\u0165 pri jedle kdeko\u013evek. Klasick\u00e9 re\u0161taur\u00e1cie s\u00fa be\u017enou praxou, ale ke\u010f\u017ee kulin\u00e1rskych prev\u00e1dzok a\u00a0zast\u00e1vok n\u00e1jdete v\u00a0meste ako h\u00fab po da\u017edi, ani neviete ako a\u00a0ocitnete sa pri stole na star\u00fdch krivolak\u00fdch schodoch v\u00a0najru\u0161nej\u0161ej \u010dasti historick\u00e9ho centra, bok po boku \u010fal\u0161\u00edch hlado\u0161ov na drevenej lavi\u010dke trhoviska, obsl\u00fa\u017ei\u0165 sa nech\u00e1te v\u00a0kiosku na rohu preplnenej ulice, alebo si svoje jedlo odnesiete do parku, kde sedie\u0165 na tr\u00e1ve a\u00a0rie\u0161i\u0165 nesmrte\u013enos\u0165 chr\u00fasta je t\u00e1 najlep\u0161ia vec, ak\u00fa pre seba m\u00f4\u017eete urobi\u0165. Mimochodom, kiosky, ako sa naz\u00fdvaj\u00fa mal\u00e9 zast\u00e1vky na oddych a\u00a0posedenie, maj\u00fa v\u00a0Portugalsku dlh\u00fa hist\u00f3riu a st\u00e1le pon\u00fakaj\u00fa noviny, tabak alebo kvety. Dnes v\u00e1m v\u0161ak z\u00a0okienka predava\u010d pod\u00e1 aj kol\u00e1\u010d, k\u00e1vu a\u00a0poh\u00e1r v\u00edna, no a\u00a0ke\u010f\u017ee sa z\u00a0nich stali doslova miesta pre ka\u017ed\u00e9ho, obklopuj\u00fa ich pov\u00e4\u010d\u0161ine stoly a\u00a0stoli\u010dky, poz\u00fdvaj\u00face na posedenie v\u00a0spolo\u010dnosti dom\u00e1cich.<\/p>\n

Croquetes.<\/strong> H\u013ead\u00e1te nie\u010do mal\u00e9, nie\u010do r\u00fdchle a\u00a0nie\u010do ve\u013emi chutn\u00e9? Ur\u010dite mus\u00edte ochutna\u0165 lisabonsk\u00e9 krokety \u010di u\u017e ste m\u00e4so\u017er\u00fati, alebo fand\u00edte sk\u00f4r syrom, ryb\u00e1m a\u00a0zelenine. V\u00a0Lisabone naraz\u00edte na croquetes na ka\u017edom rohu –\u00a0z hov\u00e4dzieho m\u00e4sa,\u00a0tuniaka, tresky \u010di zo su\u0161en\u00fdch paradajok, cvikle a\u00a0kozieho syra.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Krokety s\u00a0hov\u00e4dz\u00edm m\u00e4som <\/strong><\/p>\n

Potrebujeme:<\/strong> 500 g hov\u00e4dzieho m\u00e4sa, 1 stredne ve\u013ek\u00fa mrkvu, 100 g klob\u00e1sky (najlep\u0161ie portugalskej chouri\u00e7o<\/em>), 1 star\u0161ie pe\u010divo, 250 ml plnotu\u010dn\u00e9ho mlieka, 1 cibu\u013eu, ly\u017eicu hladkej m\u00faky, ly\u017eicu masla, 3 vaj\u00ed\u010dka, 1 vaje\u010dn\u00fd bielok, str\u00fahanku, olej, petr\u017elenov\u00fa v\u0148a\u0165, korenie, so\u013e.<\/p>\n

Pr\u00edprava:<\/strong> M\u00e4so, klob\u00e1sku a\u00a0o\u010disten\u00fa mrkvu spolu var\u00edme v\u00a0mierne osolenej vode dom\u00e4kka. V\u00a0kuchynskom robote v\u0161etko spolu spracujeme na jemne rozsekan\u00fa zmes a\u00a0trochu vody, v\u00a0ktorej sa m\u00e4so varilo, odlo\u017e\u00edme bokom. V\u00a0hrnci nech\u00e1me zovrie\u0165 mlieko a\u00a0zalejeme n\u00edm v\u00a0miske pe\u010divo z\u00a0predch\u00e1dzaj\u00faceho d\u0148a a roztla\u010d\u00edme ho vidli\u010dkou na ka\u0161u. Na plameni rozohrejeme v\u00a0panvici trochu oleja a\u00a0podus\u00edme na \u0148om cibu\u013eu, nakr\u00e1jan\u00fa na drobno. Prid\u00e1me m\u00e4sov\u00fa zmes, ly\u017eicu masla, n\u00e1sledne prid\u00e1me aj pe\u010divov\u00fa \u201eka\u0161u\u201c, vaje\u010dn\u00fd bielok, ly\u017eicu hladkej m\u00faky a\u00a0trochu vody, v\u00a0ktorej sa m\u00e4so varilo. Po chv\u00ed\u013eke dusenia prid\u00e1me nasekan\u00fa petr\u017elenov\u00fa v\u0148a\u0165, ochut\u00edme so\u013eou a\u00a0koren\u00edm. Var\u00edme dovtedy, k\u00fdm m\u00e4sov\u00e1 zmes nie je hust\u00e1 a\u00a0kompaktn\u00e1. Nech\u00e1me vychladn\u00fa\u0165. Potom v\u00a0ruk\u00e1ch formujeme z\u00a0m\u00e4sovej zmesi val\u010deky alebo gu\u013eky, oba\u013eujeme v\u00a0str\u00fahanke, n\u00e1sledne v\u00a0rozmie\u0161an\u00fdch vaj\u00ed\u010dkach a\u00a0op\u00e4\u0165 vo vrstve str\u00fahanky. Na panvici zohrejeme olej a\u00a0postupne vypr\u00e1\u017eame v\u0161etky krokety do zlatohneda. Pod\u00e1vame spolu so zemiakov\u00fdmi \u010dipsami alebo s\u00a0hranol\u010dekmi z\u00a0bat\u00e1tov.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Posadnutos\u0165 sardinkami<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pr\u00eds\u0165 do Lisabonu a\u00a0neochutna\u0165 \u017eiadnu rybu \u010di dary mora? Darmo budete sedie\u0165 na brehu rieky Tajo alebo si m\u00e1\u010da\u0165 nohy v\u00a0Atlantiku v\u00a0ne\u010falekom meste\u010dku Cascais – rybu jednoducho mus\u00edte ma\u0165, inak akoby ste tu ani nikdy neboli! Dom\u00e1ci s\u00fa nimi posadnut\u00ed a\u00a0v\u00f4bec to neskr\u00fdvaj\u00fa, ba pr\u00e1ve naopak. Spolu s\u00a0pr\u00edjemnej\u0161\u00edm po\u010das\u00edm prich\u00e1dza \u010das na ryby, a\u00a0tie sa na dlh\u00e9 mesiace st\u00e1vaj\u00fa doslova prioritou na tanieri. Jedia ich r\u00e1no, ve\u010der, doma, na p\u00e1rty, na svadb\u00e1ch, na pl\u00e1\u017ei i\u00a0v\u00a0re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00e1ch, dokonca v\u00a0meste n\u00e1jdete malebn\u00e9 obchod\u00edky, kde nek\u00fapite ni\u010d in\u00e9, len sardinky v\u00a0konzerv\u00e1ch v\u0161etk\u00fdch mo\u017en\u00fdch ve\u013ekost\u00ed a farieb. A\u00a0nesk\u00faste Lisabon\u010danom poveda\u0165, \u017ee ste tieto rybi\u010dky predsa jedli neraz aj doma – podpichn\u00fa v\u00e1s, \u017ee to e\u0161te ni\u010d neznamen\u00e1. Lebo jes\u0165 sardinky v\u00a0Portugalsku, to je ako jes\u0165 ich po prv\u00fd raz v\u00a0\u017eivote.<\/p>\n

Konzumovanie sardiniek si v\u00a0portugal\u010dine vysl\u00fa\u017eilo samostatn\u00e9 slovo \u201esardinhada\u201c – \u010dosi ako sardinkov\u00e1 sl\u00e1vnos\u0165, pov\u00e4\u010d\u0161ine ako outdoorov\u00e1 akcia s\u00a0grilovan\u00edm sardiniek a\u00a0vyberan\u00edm mal\u00fdch kosti\u010diek zo zubov. Ryby musia by\u0165 pod\u013ea dom\u00e1cich \u00faplne \u010derstv\u00e9 – od ich vylovenia a\u017e po nalo\u017eenie na tanier nesmie ubehn\u00fa\u0165 viac ako 24 hod\u00edn a\u00a0celkom najlep\u0161ie s\u00fa vraj sardinky, ktor\u00e9 ryb\u00e1ri vytiahli z\u00a0mora od m\u00e1ja do augusta (\u013eahko zapam\u00e4tate\u013en\u00e9 pravidlo letn\u00fdch mesiacov bez p\u00edsmena r). No plat\u00ed aj pravidlo ve\u013ekosti, tvaru a\u00a0slanosti – najlep\u0161ie sardinky s\u00fa tie relat\u00edvne mal\u00e9 (av\u0161ak ove\u013ea v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie, ako pozn\u00e1me u\u00a0n\u00e1s), maj\u00fa jemne ohnut\u00fd tvar a\u00a0pripravuj\u00fa sa (naj\u010dastej\u0161ie griluj\u00fa, pe\u010d\u00fa a sma\u017eia) nasolen\u00e9 kvalitnou morskou so\u013eou nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn pred \u00fapravou. Dokonal\u00e1 sardinka m\u00e1 ma\u0165 n\u00e1dherne ope\u010den\u00fa, a\u017e skaramelizovan\u00fa ko\u017eu, pod \u0148ou lahodn\u00e9, \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9 biele m\u00e4so,\u00a0uprostred kosti a\u00a0zvy\u0161ky, po ktor\u00fdch sa pooblizuje susedova ma\u010dka. Sardinky sa jedia naj\u010dastej\u0161ie s\u00a0chlebom, ktor\u00fdm sa vytiera rybacia \u0161\u0165ava, no a\u00a0obloha ost\u00e1va na v\u00e1s: grilovan\u00e9 zelen\u00e9 papri\u010dky s\u00a0olivov\u00fdm olejom, portugalsk\u00fd kukuri\u010dn\u00fd chlieb, nakladan\u00e1 mrkva, zemiakov\u00e9 lupienky, hranol\u010deky…<\/p>\n

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Treska na 365 sp\u00f4sobov<\/strong><\/p>\n

Su\u0161en\u00e1 solen\u00e1 treska patr\u00ed k najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm klenotom portugalskej kuchyne. Pri poch\u00f4dzkach Lisabonom ju \u201ec\u00edti\u0165\u201c na ka\u017edom kroku, nezaob\u00edde sa bez nej \u017eiaden trh ani predaj\u0148a m\u00e4sa a\u00a0n\u00e1jdete ju kr\u00e1sne nastajlovan\u00fa aj vo v\u00fdkladoch potrav\u00edn, pri\u010dom mnohokr\u00e1t sta\u010d\u00ed \u00eds\u0165 rovno za nosom – a\u00a0objav\u00edte rybu, ktor\u00fa vraj dom\u00e1ci dok\u00e1\u017eu pripravi\u0165 na 365 r\u00f4znych sp\u00f4sobov. Ke\u010f za\u010dn\u00fa rozpr\u00e1va\u0165 o\u00a0treske, hovoria vlastne pr\u00edbehy svojich rod\u00edn, opisuj\u00fa ve\u010dere s\u00a0priate\u013emi, maj\u00fa na mysli viano\u010dne prestret\u00fd st\u00f4l a\u00a0hist\u00f3riu svojej krajiny. Treska (bacalhau) toti\u017e zanechala v\u00a0historick\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch Portugalska nezni\u010dite\u013en\u00fa stopu. Legenda vrav\u00ed, \u017ee prv\u00e9 z\u00e1znamy o\u00a0portugalsk\u00fdch ryb\u00e1rskych flotil\u00e1ch, loviacich tresky pri pobre\u017e\u00ed Newfoundlandu, poch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa zo 16. storo\u010dia, kedy britsk\u00e9 n\u00e1morn\u00edctvo poskytovalo portugalsk\u00e9mu ochranu v\u00fdmenou za drahocenn\u00fa so\u013e. Tej mali portugalsk\u00ed ryb\u00e1ri na svojich lodiach ne\u00farekom, nakladali do nej toti\u017e svoje \u00falovky, aby rybky vydr\u017eali dlh\u00fa cestu domov. Vo\u013eakedy be\u017en\u00e9 jedlo pracuj\u00facej triedy sa stalo vyhl\u00e1senou delikatesou a\u00a0nasolen\u00e1 su\u0161en\u00e1 treska je dnes pomerne drah\u00e1 z\u00e1le\u017eitos\u0165. Lov\u00ed sa a\u017e pri brehoch N\u00f3rska a\u00a0Gr\u00f3nska, ryb\u00e1ri tr\u00e1via na mori cel\u00fd t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 a\u00a0rybu sprac\u00favaj\u00fa na lodiach – na portugalsk\u00fd breh ju vyn\u00e1\u0161aj\u00fa u\u017e nasolen\u00fa. Tresku po k\u00fape treba preto nam\u00e1\u010da\u0165 aspo\u0148 dva dni vo vode a\u00a0vodu st\u00e1le vymie\u0148a\u0165, a\u017e potom hod\u00ed na pr\u00edpravu, alebo uskladnenie v\u00a0mrazni\u010dke. A\u00a0ke\u010f sa nechcete prpla\u0165 so slanou rybou sami, ur\u010dite si ju objednajte v\u00a0niektorej z\u00a0re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed alebo v\u00a0podnikoch, kde sa na ryby \u0161pecializuj\u00fa. Neo\u013eutujete, vysk\u00fa\u0161ajte najzn\u00e1mej\u0161iu bacalhau \u00e0<\/strong> Br\u00e1s (so zemiakmi a\u00a0vaj\u00ed\u010dkom), bacalhau com Natas (pe\u010den\u00e1 treska so smotanou) alebo bacalhau \u00e1\u00a0Gomes de S\u00e1 (kastr\u00f3lik so slanou treskou, cibu\u013eou a\u00a0zemiakmi).<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Bacalhau \u00e0<\/strong>\u00a0Br\u00e1s pod\u013ea \u0161\u00e9fkuch\u00e1ra Jos\u00e9ho Avilleza<\/strong><\/p>\n

Su\u0161en\u00fa solen\u00fa tresku nam\u00e1\u010dame vo vode aspo\u0148 24 hod\u00edn, vodu viackr\u00e1t denne men\u00edme a\u00a0rybu usklad\u0148ujeme v\u00a0n\u00e1dobe na chladnom mieste, ko\u017eou smerom nadol. Takto pripraven\u00e1 treska je zbaven\u00e1 prebyto\u010dnej soli a\u00a0pripraven\u00e1 na pou\u017eitie. Rukami rybu rozoberieme na mal\u00e9 k\u00fasky, vyber\u00e1me kosti a\u00a0nachyst\u00e1me si z\u00a0nej potrebn\u00e9 mno\u017estvo.<\/p>\n

Potrebujeme:<\/strong> 400 g tresky, 500 g tenu\u010dk\u00fdch zemiakov\u00fdch ty\u010diniek (batata frita palha), 8 vajec, 4 vaje\u010dn\u00e9 \u017e\u013atky, 1 bobkov\u00fd list, str\u00fa\u010dik cesnaku, 3 cibule, olivov\u00fd olej, \u010derstv\u00fa petr\u017elenov\u00fa v\u0148a\u0165, so\u013e, \u010dierne korenie, \u010dierne olivy.<\/p>\n

Pr\u00edprava:<\/strong> Na jemno nakr\u00e1jan\u00fa cibu\u013eu, cesnak a\u00a0bobkov\u00fd list ohrejeme na olivovom oleji na panvici. Po\u010dk\u00e1me, k\u00fdm sa cibu\u013ea udus\u00ed do m\u00e4kka a\u00a0zatia\u013e v\u00a0miske roz\u0161\u013eah\u00e1me metli\u010dkou vajcia a\u00a0vaje\u010dn\u00e9 \u017e\u013atky. K\u00a0cibuli prid\u00e1me k\u00fasky ryby a\u00a0na ve\u013emi miernom ohni opek\u00e1me asi 2 min\u00fatky. Prid\u00e1me asi 1\/4 zemiakov\u00fdch ty\u010diniek, zamie\u0161ame, prid\u00e1me 1\/4 vajec a\u00a0op\u00e4\u0165 zamie\u0161ame. Vajcia by mali osta\u0165 kr\u00e9mov\u00e9, postupne sa vp\u00edja\u0165 do ryby a\u00a0zemiakov\u00fdch pali\u010diek, nie pripeka\u0165 sa na dne panvice. Postup s\u00a0prid\u00e1van\u00edm vajec a\u00a0pali\u010diek opakujeme dovtedy, k\u00fdm v\u0161etko neminieme, a\u017e nakoniec odstav\u00edme po kr\u00e1tkom dusen\u00ed z\u00a0plame\u0148a. Do panvice prid\u00e1me nasekan\u00fa petr\u017elenov\u00fa v\u0148a\u0165, odstr\u00e1nime bobkov\u00fd list, ochut\u00edme mlet\u00fdm \u010diernym koren\u00edm a (iba v\u00a0pr\u00edpade potreby) dosol\u00edme. Serv\u00edrujeme s\u00a0cel\u00fdmi \u010diernymi olivami na vrchu bacalhau \u00e1 Br\u00e1s.<\/p>\n

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Vajcia, cukor, \u0161korica<\/strong><\/p>\n

Na potulk\u00e1ch mestom by ste celkom ur\u010dite nemali vynecha\u0165 n\u00e1v\u0161tevu \u0161tvrte Bel\u00e9m (portugalsk\u00fd n\u00e1zov pre Betlehem) a hor\u00faci turistick\u00fd \u201espot\u201c Past\u00e9is de Bel\u00e9m. Tento obchod\u00edk so sladk\u00fdmi kol\u00e1\u010dikmi s obrovskou vykachli\u010dkovanou kaviar\u0148ou, pripom\u00ednaj\u00facou sk\u00f4r ak\u00fasi v\u00fdvarov\u0148u \u010di \u0161kolsk\u00fa jed\u00e1le\u0148 bohato ozdoben\u00fa bielo-modr\u00fdmi azulejos. Budete sa musie\u0165 postavi\u0165 do dlho\u010dizn\u00e9ho radu, ktor\u00fd kon\u010d\u00ed a\u017e na ulici a\u00a0vzia\u0165 si kol\u00e1\u010diky so sebou, alebo sa posadi\u0165 k\u00a0jedn\u00e9mu z\u00a0mnoh\u00fdch stolov (\u0161ance s\u00fa mal\u00e9, ale existuj\u00fa, av\u0161ak nie cez v\u00edkend alebo uprostred d\u0148a) a\u00a0necha\u0165 sa obskakova\u0165 obsluhou. V\u00a0oboch pr\u00edpadoch v\u0161ak sprav\u00edte dobre, preto\u017ee pr\u00e1ve na tomto mieste (a nikde inde) dostanete vyhl\u00e1sen\u00e9, e\u0161te tepl\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010diky plnen\u00e9 vaje\u010dn\u00fdm kr\u00e9mom, pastel de Nata. Ak v\u00e1m ich pon\u00faknu kdeko\u013evek v\u00a0hoteli \u010di v\u00a0inej pek\u00e1rni Lisabonu, vedzte, \u017ee iba tieto s\u00fa origin\u00e1ly a\u00a0recept na ne, zachovan\u00fd e\u0161te od roku 1837 (vtedy sa v\u00fdroba t\u00fdchto cukroviniek za\u010dala), je t\u00fdm najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm tajomstvom. K priekopn\u00edkom v\u00fdroby sladkost\u00ed v\u00a0krajine patrili od 15. storo\u010dia mn\u00edsi a\u00a0mn\u00ed\u0161ky. Vrav\u00ed sa, \u017ee pr\u00e1ve obyvatelia kl\u00e1\u0161torov \u0161krobili kedysi svoju bielize\u0148 vaje\u010dn\u00fdmi bielkami, museli teda vymyslie\u0165, \u010do spravi\u0165 so zvy\u0161n\u00fdmi \u017e\u013atkami. Pravda v\u0161ak bude sk\u00f4r tak\u00e1, \u017ee mali jednoducho prive\u013ea vo\u013en\u00e9ho \u010dasu, a\u00a0tak ho vyu\u017e\u00edvali kreat\u00edvne a\u00a0dokonca ve\u013emi vtipne: svoje v\u00fdtvory naz\u00fdvali napr\u00edklad \u201e\u0161unka z\u00a0neba\u201c (vyu\u017e\u00edvanie brav\u010dov\u00e9ho tuku v\u00a0pek\u00e1r\u0148ach je trad\u00edciou) \u010di \u201edvojit\u00e1 brada anjela\u201c.<\/p>\n

Kedysi sa v\u00a0rafin\u00e9rii hne\u010f ved\u013ea bel\u00e9mskeho kl\u00e1\u0161tora Jer\u00f3nimos sprac\u00favala cukrov\u00e1 trstina a\u00a0vyu\u017e\u00edvala sa v\u00a0malom obchod\u00edku, a\u017e ktor\u00fdsi mn\u00edch, v\u00a0snahe o\u00a0z\u00e1chranu predaja, vymyslel kol\u00e1\u010diky, zn\u00e1me ako pastel de Bel\u00e9m. Dodnes sa pe\u010d\u00fa v \u201etajnej miestnosti\u201c a\u00a0cukr\u00e1rov, pripravuj\u00facich cesto a\u00a0sladk\u00fa plnku, via\u017ee dohoda o\u00a0ml\u010danlivosti – v\u0161etci do jedn\u00e9ho s\u013eubuj\u00fa, \u017ee bud\u00fa recept na najzn\u00e1mej\u0161\u00ed kol\u00e1\u010dik chr\u00e1ni\u0165 pred vyzraden\u00edm telom aj du\u0161ou. No ak by ste chceli vedie\u0165 aspo\u0148 to, ko\u013eko kol\u00e1\u010dikov sa v\u00a0pek\u00e1rni Bel\u00e9m denne vyrob\u00ed, t\u00fato inform\u00e1ciu pre v\u00e1s m\u00e1me: cukr\u00e1ri vyrobia 20 – 25 tis\u00edc kusov za jedin\u00fd de\u0148! V\u00a0predajni zak\u00fapite aj in\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de a\u00a0sladkosti, na t\u00fdch si v\u0161ak pochutn\u00e1te aj inde a\u00a0nemus\u00edte st\u00e1\u0165 v\u00a0dlho\u010diznom rade, alebo sa trias\u0165, \u010di ide o\u00a0origin\u00e1l, alebo \u201efejk\u201c s\u00a0podobnou chu\u0165ou. Portugalci toti\u017e maj\u00fa sladk\u00fd jaz\u00fd\u010dek a\u00a0vedia, ako pripravova\u0165 perfektn\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de, pe\u010div\u00e1 a\u00a0sladk\u00e9 dezerty. V\u00a0mnoh\u00fdch z\u00a0nich n\u00e1jdete vaj\u00ed\u010dkov\u00fa plnku, med, \u0161koricu, vanilku, cukor a\u00a0mandle… a ke\u010f sa v\u00e1m zunuje kol\u00e1\u010dikov\u00e1 klasika, ur\u010dite ochutnajte fam\u00f3zne zmrzliny alebo sorbety.<\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n

Gabina Weissov\u00e1<\/p>\n

foto Gabina Weissov\u00e1<\/p>\n

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\u010cl\u00e1nok si pre\u010d\u00edtate v j\u00fanovom \u010d\u00edsle MIAU (2019)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Pre cestovate\u013ea, prich\u00e1dzaj\u00faceho od mora, Lisabon, dokonca i\u00a0z dia\u013eky, vyn\u00e1ra sa ako vidina zo sna, zrete\u013ene, oproti jasnej modrej oblohe, ktor\u00fa slnce posv\u00e4cuje jagav\u00fdm zlatom. A\u00a0kupoly, pomn\u00edky, star\u00e9 hrady vy\u010dnievaj\u00fa nad masou domov ako vzdialen\u00ed hl\u00e1snici tohto n\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho s\u00eddla, tohto po\u017eehnan\u00e9ho regi\u00f3nu.   Pribli\u017ene tak\u00e9to \u00f3dy spieval na svoje milovan\u00e9 mesto portugalsk\u00fd poet Fernando […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":6760,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[77,9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6759","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jun-2019","category-menu"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6759","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6759"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6759\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6766,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6759\/revisions\/6766"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6760"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6759"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6759"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6759"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}