{"id":7611,"date":"2020-04-08T09:47:08","date_gmt":"2020-04-08T07:47:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/?p=7611"},"modified":"2020-04-08T09:47:08","modified_gmt":"2020-04-08T07:47:08","slug":"fes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/fes\/","title":{"rendered":"Fes"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Medresy<\/strong><\/p>\n

Fes je domovom najstar\u0161ej nepretr\u017eite funguj\u00facej univerzity na svete. A zalo\u017eila ju \u017eena (!) \u2013 dc\u00e9ra bohat\u00e9ho kupca Fatima al-F\u00edhr\u00ed. Patr\u00ed k nej aj Kairu\u00e1nska me\u0161ita, v ktorej sa ur\u010duje ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u00e9 na\u010dasovanie ramad\u00e1nu. Pre nemoslimov je stavba z roku 859 nepr\u00edstupn\u00e1, a tak sa zvedavos\u0165 d\u00e1 uspokoji\u0165 len v ned\u00e1vno zrenovovanej kni\u017enici alebo v po\u010detn\u00fdch medres\u00e1ch – teologick\u00fdch \u0161kol\u00e1ch. K t\u00fdm najkraj\u0161\u00edm patr\u00ed B\u00fa In\u00e1nia, ktor\u00fa dal postavi\u0165 sult\u00e1n Ab\u00fa Inan. Mal \u00fadajne 325 synov, a tak mu ulemovia (islamsk\u00ed u\u010denci) odporu\u010dili postavi\u0165 si medresu na skl\u00e1dke odpadu s odkazom, \u017ee zbo\u017enos\u0165 a\u00a0pr\u00e1ca vylie\u010dia v\u0161etko. Hovor\u00ed sa, \u017ee po dostavan\u00ed hodil v\u0161etky \u00fa\u010dty do rieky, lebo \u201eto, \u010do je kr\u00e1sne, nie je drah\u00e9, bez oh\u013eadu na sumu, ale je nevy\u010d\u00edslite\u013enej hodnoty to, \u010do \u010dloveka pote\u0161\u00ed\u201c. Keby na \u00fa\u010dty pozrel, asi by horko zaplakal. Hoci rozlo\u017eenie medresy je jednoduch\u00e9 – vn\u00fatorn\u00e9 patio lemuj\u00fa intern\u00e1tne izby \u0161tudentov na poschod\u00ed a miestnos\u0165 pre modlitby – detaily citlivej v\u00fdzdoby nech\u00e1vaj\u00fa \u017easn\u00fa\u0165 aj po rokoch. Ru\u010dne ma\u013eovan\u00e9 mozaikov\u00e9 obklady zellid\u017e striedaj\u00fa vzorovan\u00e9 \u0161tukov\u00e9 omietky opracovan\u00e9 jemnu\u010dko ako \u010dipka a ornamenty v\u00a0c\u00e9drovom dreve. Nad \u0161kolou sa t\u00fd\u010di zelen\u00e1 strecha minaretu me\u0161ity, ktor\u00e1 sa st\u00e1le vyu\u017e\u00edva k modlitb\u00e1m.<\/p>\n

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Stredovek\u00e9 bludisko<\/strong><\/p>\n

O stro \u010derven\u00e9 jahody ve\u013ekosti detskej dlane, kusy m\u00e4sa na h\u00e1koch, ale aj pyram\u00eddy orie\u0161kov, korenia a cukroviniek striedaj\u00fa st\u00e1nky s oble\u010den\u00edm a umeleck\u00fdmi predmetmi. Uzulink\u00e9 uli\u010dky, \u017eiv\u00e9 pokriky, z\u00e1plava aromatick\u00fdch v\u00f4n\u00ed aj pachov, jemn\u00e9 postrkovanie – to v\u0161etko \u010dloveka zaval\u00ed po prechode hlavnou br\u00e1nou Bab Boujeloud a vytvor\u00ed takmer paralyzuj\u00faci efekt na p\u00e4ticu zmyslov. Fesk\u00e1 medina m\u00e1 vy\u0161e 9.400 spletit\u00fdch uli\u010diek, ktor\u00e9 daj\u00fa zabra\u0165 aj objavite\u013eom s prirodzen\u00fdm kompasom v hlave. Z\u00e1mern\u00e9 bl\u00fadenie je pr\u00edjemn\u00e9, z\u00a0toho nechcen\u00e9ho v\u00e1m \u013eahko pom\u00f4\u017eu \u201enezi\u0161tn\u00ed\u201c dom\u00e1ci, ktor\u00ed si za dobr\u00fa radu nehanbia vyp\u00fdta\u0165 poldenn\u00fd plat. Medina Fes el Bali patri k najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm funk\u010dn\u00fdm stredovek\u00fdm mest\u00e1m na svete a \u017eivot v nej sa za uplynul\u00e9 storo\u010dia takmer nezmenil. Na n\u00e1mestiach pracuj\u00fa hrn\u010diari aj kovotepci, v krivolak\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch sa pot\u00e1caj\u00fa osl\u00edky nalo\u017een\u00e9 tovarom (pr\u00edjemn\u00e1 zmena oproti d\u00e1viv\u00e9mu smogu z mopedov v Marak\u00e9\u0161i) a v kaviar\u0148ach mu\u017ei s\u0155kaj\u00fa m\u00e4tov\u00fd \u010daj. Fes pri\u0161iel o svoj status v 19. storo\u010d\u00ed, kedy Franc\u00fazi presunuli politick\u00e9 centrum do pr\u00edmorsk\u00e9ho Rabatu, no poves\u0165 vysokej kult\u00farnej \u00farovne si zachoval dodnes. Nenechajte si ujs\u0165 v\u00fdh\u013ead na medinu z kopca pri pevnosti Borj Nord, ktor\u00fa dop\u013a\u0148a aj m\u00fazeum zbran\u00ed a merenidsk\u00e9 hrobky.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Svie\u017ea o\u00e1za<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hoci Fes patr\u00ed k najtradi\u010dnej\u0161\u00edm marock\u00fdm mest\u00e1m, nezaspal na vavr\u00ednoch. Za okrajmi mediny sa rozrast\u00e1 Nov\u00fd Fes (Fes al-D\u017ed\u00edd), v ktorom sa odr\u00e1\u017ea siln\u00fd vplyv franc\u00fazskej koloniz\u00e1cie aj modernej doby a kde ved\u013ea \u017eeny v burke kr\u00e1\u010da \u0161tudentka v lodi\u010dk\u00e1ch a na pery si nan\u00e1\u0161a nov\u00fd odtie\u0148 r\u00fa\u017eu Yves Rocher. Od ruchu oboch mestsk\u00fdch \u010dast\u00ed v\u00e1s vyslobodia z\u00e1hrady Jnan Sbil s bujnou veget\u00e1ciou v punti\u010dk\u00e1rsky upraven\u00fdch kre\u00e1ci\u00e1ch. Dom\u00e1ci sa sem chodia ochladi\u0165 k\u00a0font\u00e1nam a jazierku s palmov\u00fdm ostrovom, bambusov\u00e9 les\u00edky striedaj\u00fa okrasn\u00e9 kvety, deti \u0161teboc\u00fa pri vt\u00e1\u010d\u00edch voli\u00e9rach a n\u00e1dych kysl\u00edka je, najm\u00e4 podve\u010der, balzamom pre du\u0161u.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>Farebn\u00e1 \u00fania<\/strong><\/p>\n

D o jedn\u00e9ho vandl\u00edka holub\u00ed trus, do \u010fal\u0161ieho kravsk\u00fd mo\u010d, tuk a mozog cicavcov, kyselinu s \u00edry, e\u0161te za vrecko \u0161afranu, kurkumy \u010di indiga a voil\u00e1 – recept je na svete! Garbiarstvo a\u00a0farbenie ko\u017ee m\u00e1 vo Fese trad\u00edciu u\u017e od 11. storo\u010dia, garbiare\u0148 Chouwara patr\u00ed k najstar\u0161\u00edm na svete. V kadiach sa nek\u00fapu len ko\u017ee, ale aj pracovn\u00edci, ktor\u00ed podobne ako Popolu\u0161ka ohnut\u00e1 nad potokom m\u00e1\u010daj\u00fa ko\u017ee hol\u00fdmi rukami. Od nap\u00fa\u0161\u0165ania hlinen\u00fdch n\u00e1dr\u017e\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 zvrchu pripom\u00ednaj\u00fa v\u010delie pl\u00e1sty cez zbavovania ko\u017ee od tukov a\u017e po su\u0161enie na okolit\u00fdch strech\u00e1ch \u2013 postup v\u00fdroby sa za cel\u00e9 st\u00e1ro\u010dia takmer nezmenil. Mnoh\u00e9 pr\u00edrodn\u00e9 farbiv\u00e1 nahradili chemick\u00e9, o\u00a0t\u00fdch v\u0161ak garbiari a ich u\u010denci organizovan\u00ed pod\u013ea pravidiel stredovek\u00fdch cechov rad\u0161ej ml\u010dia. Nazrie\u0165 do z\u00e1kulisia cel\u00e9ho procesu sa d\u00e1 len z ter\u00e1s okolit\u00fdch obchodov s ko\u017een\u00fdmi v\u00fdrobkami, za \u010do v\u00e1s majitelia prin\u00fatia otvori\u0165 pe\u0148a\u017eenku – bu\u010f vo forme prepitn\u00e9ho alebo rovno n\u00e1kupu.<\/p>\n

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z\u00a0Maroka<\/p>\n

Zuzana Zimmermannov\u00e1<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Medresy Fes je domovom najstar\u0161ej nepretr\u017eite funguj\u00facej univerzity na svete. A zalo\u017eila ju \u017eena (!) \u2013 dc\u00e9ra bohat\u00e9ho kupca Fatima al-F\u00edhr\u00ed. Patr\u00ed k nej aj Kairu\u00e1nska me\u0161ita, v ktorej sa ur\u010duje ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u00e9 na\u010dasovanie ramad\u00e1nu. Pre nemoslimov je stavba z roku 859 nepr\u00edstupn\u00e1, a tak sa zvedavos\u0165 d\u00e1 uspokoji\u0165 len v ned\u00e1vno zrenovovanej kni\u017enici alebo […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":7612,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[85,4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7611","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-april-2020","category-metropoly"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7611","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7611"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7611\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7616,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7611\/revisions\/7616"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7612"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7611"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7611"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7611"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}