\u0160tudovali ste v\u00a0n\u00f3rskom Oslo, st\u00e1\u017eovali v\u00a0D\u00e1nsku. Ste fan\u00fa\u0161i\u010dkou seversk\u00e9ho dizajnu a\u00a0\u0161kandin\u00e1vskeho \u0161t\u00fdlu \u017eivota? <\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\nPodstatou seversk\u00e9ho dizajnu je, \u017ee \u0160kandin\u00e1vci nehromadia v dom\u00e1cnostiach zbyto\u010dnosti a ka\u017ed\u00e1 vec v interi\u00e9ri m\u00e1 svoju praktick\u00fa, ale aj estetick\u00fa hodnotu. V\u017edy ma ve\u013emi in\u0161pirovalo, ke\u010f som mohla nav\u0161t\u00edvi\u0165 alebo zosta\u0165 p\u00e1r dn\u00ed u mojich tamoj\u0161\u00edch kamar\u00e1tok \u010di u\u017e v\u00a0Kodani, \u0160tokholme, alebo u\u00a0jednej z\u00a0nich na letnom dome na \u0161tokholmskom s\u00faostrov\u00ed Archipelago. V\u017edy, ke\u010f som vo\u0161la do ich pr\u00edbytkov, ovanula ma zapam\u00e4tate\u013en\u00e1 v\u00f4\u0148a, do bytu prenikalo typick\u00e9 seversk\u00e9 svetlo, v\u0161ade nav\u00f4kol boli veci, ktor\u00e9 sa dop\u013a\u0148ali, svoj\u00edm usporiadan\u00edm jednoducho d\u00e1vali zmysel. U\u017e len pou\u017eitie farieb na sten\u00e1ch, podlah\u00e1ch alebo kachli\u010dk\u00e1ch… Ten priestor bol ako in\u0161pir\u00e1cie, ktor\u00e9 nos\u00edme v hlave a\u00a0zrazu ich vid\u00edme fyzicky zhmotnen\u00e9 v objektoch, farb\u00e1ch a v\u00f4\u0148ach.<\/p>\n
\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- O\u00a0\u010dom je dne\u0161n\u00e1 m\u00f3dna vlna, ktor\u00e1 sa in\u0161piruje folkl\u00f3rom? <\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Kop\u00edrova\u0165 v\u00fd\u0161ivky tak, \u017ee ich natla\u010d\u00edme na polyesterov\u00e9 tri\u010dk\u00e1 z \u010c\u00edny alebo v tom \u201elep\u0161om\u201c pr\u00edpade s\u00fa vy\u0161it\u00e9 strojmi na mikin\u00e1ch (z l\u00e1tok s\u00edce s organick\u00fdmi certifik\u00e1tmi), to sa mi nezd\u00e1 ve\u013emi \u00factyhodn\u00e9 k folkl\u00f3ru a hlavne je to ve\u013emi prvopl\u00e1nov\u00e9. Kroje maj\u00fa pre m\u0148a ove\u013ea v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iu hodnotu a nedok\u00e1zala by som ju zredukova\u0165 len na to, \u010do je farebn\u00e9 a p\u00e1\u010div\u00e9. Obdivujem napr\u00edklad \u013eud\u00ed, ktor\u00ed kroje re\u0161tauruj\u00fa – t\u00ed ich musia pozna\u0165 doslova do nitky. Pre m\u0148a kroj ukr\u00fdva odkaz, ktor\u00fd m\u00e1 st\u00e1le \u010do poveda\u0165…<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n- Ru\u010dn\u00e9 tkanie nie je na\u0161ou lok\u00e1lnou z\u00e1le\u017eitos\u0165ou. V\u00a0\u010dom je toto star\u00e9 remeslo \u0161pecifick\u00e9 na Slovensku?<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Najstar\u0161ie zmienky o tkan\u00ed sa datuj\u00fa do doby neolitu. Tkanie je tu teda odd\u00e1vna a vyv\u00edjalo sa skoro po celom svete. Rozdiely sa prejavovali najm\u00e4 v materi\u00e1loch, vzoroch a technik\u00e1ch. Na Slovensku bolo ve\u013emi zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 gub\u00e1rstvo – kde sa vlna zatk\u00e1va a\u00a0p\u00f4sob\u00ed, akoby \u0161lo o ov\u010diu ko\u017eu\u0161inu. V hist\u00f3rii ve\u013ek\u00fd prelom priniesol vznik \u017eak\u00e1ru, ktor\u00fd umo\u017enil tka\u0165 komplikovanej\u0161ie, plastick\u00e9 vzory. \u017dak\u00e1rov\u00fd tk\u00e1\u010dsky stroj zostrojil v\u00a0roku 1804 lyonsk\u00fd tk\u00e1\u010d Joseph Marie Jacquard, po ktorom je aj pomenovan\u00fd. Mnoh\u00fdch s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00fdch tk\u00e1\u010dov a tk\u00e1\u010dky do ve\u013ekej miery ovplyvnila nemeck\u00e1 avantgardn\u00e1 architektonick\u00e1 a umeleckopriemyseln\u00e1 vysok\u00e1 \u0161kola Bauhaus. No a potom s\u00fa tu, samozrejme, chanelovsk\u00e9 tv\u00eddy. Coco Chanel si uvedomila, \u017ee t\u00e1to pohodln\u00e1 tkanina z\u00a0p\u00e1nskeho \u0161atn\u00edka m\u00e1 kvalitu a sofistikovanos\u0165, ktor\u00e1 by sa dobre hodila k jej dizajnom. Tv\u00edd dodnes tvor\u00ed siln\u00fa s\u00fa\u010das\u0165 pr\u00edbehu Chanel a tk\u00e1 sa v Maison Lesage, ktor\u00fd som mala mo\u017enos\u0165 v Par\u00ed\u017ei nav\u0161t\u00edvi\u0165.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n- Vo svojej tvorbe <\/strong>pou\u017e\u00edvate historick\u00e9 bavlnen\u00e9 a \u013eanov\u00e9 vl\u00e1kna zo Slovenska a hodv\u00e1bne vl\u00e1kna z Japonska…<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
\u013danov\u00e9 alebo bavlnen\u00e9 vl\u00e1kna zo Slovenska boli spraden\u00e9 v minulosti a st\u00e1le s\u00fa ve\u013emi kvalitn\u00e9. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou poch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa e\u0161te zo z\u00e1sob tk\u00e1\u010dov, ktor\u00ed u\u017e netkaj\u00fa. S\u00fa od \u013eud\u00ed z r\u00f4znych ded\u00edn, ktor\u00ed ich pred\u00e1vaj\u00fa alebo mi daruj\u00fa, ke\u010f\u017ee sa im p\u00e1\u010di, ako ich vyu\u017e\u00edvam. Sna\u017e\u00edm sa ich znovu pou\u017ei\u0165 v zauj\u00edmav\u00fdch kombin\u00e1ci\u00e1ch s t\u00fdmi japonsk\u00fdmi, ktor\u00e9 maj\u00fa \u00faplne in\u00e9 kvality. Na\u0161la som si dod\u00e1vate\u013ea v meste Kj\u00f3to, v\u0161etky jeho vl\u00e1kna s\u00fa ru\u010dne spraden\u00e9, farben\u00e9 pr\u00edrodn\u00fdmi farbivami. Japonsko m\u00e1 bohat\u00fa textiln\u00fa hist\u00f3riu, tieto vl\u00e1kna vyzeraj\u00fa inak, inak sa spr\u00e1vaj\u00fa… \u010ci\u017ee nie je to vintage oble\u010denie, ale vintage vl\u00e1kno, ktor\u00e9mu d\u00e1vam nov\u00fd \u017eivot.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n- Ako cel\u00fd proces va\u0161ej tvorby prebieha? <\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Zoberme si ako pr\u00edklad ru\u010dne tkan\u00e9 nohavice zo surov\u00e9ho hodv\u00e1bu. Hne\u010f, ako som l\u00e1tku dala dole z\u00a0krosien, za\u010dala \u017ei\u0165 vlastn\u00fdm \u017eivotom. Od za\u010diatku sa sna\u017e\u00edm materi\u00e1l pozorne vn\u00edma\u0165 a ur\u010di\u0165, \u010di sa skuto\u010dne hod\u00ed na odev, ktor\u00fd z neho pl\u00e1nujem urobi\u0165. Samozrejme, do tohto bodu prebiehal \u010dasovo n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd proces pr\u00edpravy osnovy, krosien na tkanie a samotn\u00e9 tkanie, vl\u00e1kno za vl\u00e1knom. Pri tvorbe strihov a \u0161it\u00ed spolupracujem s pani Annou \u0160kvarkovou, s\u00a0\u0148ou sa zam\u00fd\u0161\u013eame nad t\u00fdm, ako najlep\u0161ie vyu\u017ei\u0165 materi\u00e1l, aby nezostal skoro \u017eiadny odpad. Strih teda tvor\u00edme priamo na dan\u00fa l\u00e1tku a jej rozmery. Sna\u017e\u00edme sa vyu\u017ei\u0165 prirodzene zatkan\u00e9 okraje a pou\u017ei\u0165 ich pr\u00e1ve tam, kde sa v odeve bud\u00fa nach\u00e1dza\u0165 vn\u00fatorn\u00e9 \u0161vy. Ostatn\u00e9 odstrihnut\u00e9 kraje ru\u010dne ob\u0161\u00edvam, tak aby sa pri pr\u00e1ci a pri \u010fal\u0161om nosen\u00ed nep\u00e1rali, nepou\u017e\u00edvam overlock, v\u0161etko rob\u00edm vl\u00e1knom, z ktor\u00e9ho je l\u00e1tka utkan\u00e1. Nasleduje strihanie, \u0161pendlenie, \u0161itie, \u017eehlenie, sk\u00fa\u0161ky na postave, fin\u00e1lne \u0161itie a znovu \u017eehlenie. \u017dehlenie je v tomto procese ve\u013emi d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9, ke\u010f\u017ee vie ovplyvni\u0165, ako odev bude st\u00e1\u0165, je to doslova tvarovanie. Je to ako tvori\u0165 sochu, ktor\u00e1 so svoj\u00edm nosite\u013eom nakoniec o\u017eije…<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n- Nec\u00edtite sa za krosnami trochu osamelo? <\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Ur\u010dite by som prijala, keby sa n\u00e1s v\u00a0ateli\u00e9ri zi\u0161lo viac, zatia\u013e sa to deje len pri pr\u00edprave osnovy, ke\u010f spolu snujeme vl\u00e1kna. Tento proces sa deje na drevenom snovadle, kr\u00fatiacom sa okolo stredovej osi. Priadza z\u00a0ve\u013ek\u00fdch cievok vedie cez dreven\u00fd piestik, v ktor\u00fdch s\u00fa navle\u010den\u00e9 nite z\u00a0ka\u017edej odv\u00edjaj\u00facej sa cievky. Ot\u00e1\u010dan\u00edm sa nite nav\u00edjaj\u00fa na snovadl\u00e1. Takto nasnovan\u00fa priadzu opatrne odoberaj\u00fa zo snovadla dve \u017eeny, jedna pomaly pos\u00fava snovadlo a druh\u00e1 oboma rukami splet\u00e1 osnovu do pletenca s ve\u013ek\u00fdmi okami a ve\u013emi slabo ju za\u0165ahuje, aby sa pri zakladan\u00ed na krosn\u00e1 navinula na dreven\u00fd n\u00e1voj… P\u00e1\u010di sa mi predstava vytvori\u0165 manufakt\u00faru, ateli\u00e9r, kde by v\u0161etko vznikalo pod jednou strechou.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\n- Poch\u00e1dzate z\u00a0 horehronskej obce Telg\u00e1rt, bohatej na folkl\u00f3r. Ako ovplyvnila va\u0161e rozhodnutie profesion\u00e1lne sa venova\u0165 textiln\u00e9mu remeslu?<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
Od mala som vn\u00edmala hodnotu textiln\u00fdch remesiel, tkania, vy\u0161\u00edvania, plisovania… M\u00e1me doma viacero krojov, prechov\u00e1vaj\u00fa sa z gener\u00e1cie na gener\u00e1ciu. Bola som obklopen\u00e1 pr\u00edrodou, ktor\u00e1 ma st\u00e1le in\u0161piruje a\u00a0s folkl\u00f3rom, krojmi, tancami, \u013eudov\u00fdmi pies\u0148ami a\u00a0hudbou som vyrastala – sama som od siedmich rokov tancovala a spievala vo folkl\u00f3rnom s\u00fabore Telg\u00e1rt. Folkl\u00f3r ma dok\u00e1\u017ee v\u017edy nabudi\u0165, vn\u00edmam ho ako moju s\u00fa\u010das\u0165.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Simonetta Zalov\u00e1<\/p>\n
foto Gabina Weissov\u00e1<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Druh\u00fa desiatku ot\u00e1zok a odpoved\u00ed n\u00e1jdete v apr\u00edlovom \u010d\u00edsle MIAU (2021)<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
M\u00f3dni dizajn\u00e9ri nak\u00fapia l\u00e1tky z\u00a0r\u00f4znych textiln\u00fdch fabr\u00edk a\u00a0z\u00a0nich potom navrhuj\u00fa a \u0161ij\u00fa svoje modely. Krist\u00edna \u0160ipulov\u00e1, absolventka textiln\u00e9ho dizajnu na V\u0160VU a N\u00e1rodnej akad\u00e9mie umen\u00ed v\u00a0Oslo, na to ide od piky: na storo\u010dn\u00fdch krosn\u00e1ch zo star\u00fdch \u013eanov\u00fdch a\u00a0bavlnen\u00fdch vl\u00e1kien si najsk\u00f4r sama utk\u00e1 materi\u00e1l, a\u00a0ten potom tvaruje a\u00a0sk\u00fama, na \u010do by sa najlep\u0161ie hodil. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":8734,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[94,13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8733","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-april-2021","category-etc"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8733","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=8733"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8733\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8750,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8733\/revisions\/8750"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/8734"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=8733"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=8733"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=8733"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
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<\/a>Pred p\u00e1r t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ami ste sa z\u00fa\u010dastnili London Fashion Weeku, ktor\u00fd sa konal online. Ako ste sa na toto prest\u00ed\u017ene podujatie m\u00f3dy dostali? <\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n