{"id":9989,"date":"2022-04-06T08:54:23","date_gmt":"2022-04-06T06:54:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/?p=9989"},"modified":"2022-04-06T08:54:23","modified_gmt":"2022-04-06T06:54:23","slug":"jozef-kolejak-jedlo-je-verejne-tolerovana-rozkos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/jozef-kolejak-jedlo-je-verejne-tolerovana-rozkos\/","title":{"rendered":"Jozef Kolej\u00e1k – Jedlo je verejne tolerovan\u00e1 rozko\u0161"},"content":{"rendered":"

 <\/p>\n

Kedysi sa kv\u00f4li nemu viedli vojny a\u00a0\u0161arv\u00e1tky, dnes nad n\u00edm najprv cvakaj\u00fa blesky smartf\u00f3nov a\u00a0pri zbiehaj\u00facich sa slin\u00e1ch sa zdie\u013ea hashtag #foodporn. Jedlo dok\u00e1\u017ee rozpr\u00e1va\u0165 neuverite\u013en\u00e9 pr\u00edbehy a rozp\u00e1li\u0165 mnoh\u00e9 v\u00e1\u0161ne, no v\u00a0skuto\u010dnosti najm\u00e4 sp\u00e1ja. Omamn\u00e9 chute a\u00a0intenz\u00edvne v\u00f4ne, ale aj \u013eud\u00ed z\u00a0rovnak\u00e9ho i\u00a0kontrastn\u00e9ho cesta. Podobne ako scen\u00e1rista Jozef Kolej\u00e1k sp\u00e1ja svoj talent na slov\u00e1 s\u00a0r\u00f4znymi t\u00e9mami – od nezvy\u010dajn\u00fdch gurm\u00e1nskych atlasov, ktor\u00e9 opisuj\u00fa \u017eivotopisy sl\u00e1vnych pochut\u00edn, a\u017e po zn\u00e1me slovensk\u00e9 seri\u00e1ly, ktor\u00e9 \u017eiaria z\u00a0telev\u00edznych obrazoviek. <\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Bernard Shaw povedal, \u017ee neexistuje ni\u010d \u00faprimnej\u0161ie ako l\u00e1ska k\u00a0jedlu. Ako to m\u00e1te vy? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Pre m\u0148a je varenie kon\u00ed\u010dek, priestor, kde sa m\u00f4\u017eem skry\u0165 pred svetom, vychutna\u0165 si ho a\u00a0by\u0165 v\u00a0\u0148om tvoriv\u00fd. Ke\u010f\u017ee sa venujem p\u00edsaniu filmov\u00fdch a\u00a0telev\u00edznych scen\u00e1rov, do mojej pr\u00e1ce hovor\u00ed ve\u013emi ve\u013ea \u013eud\u00ed a\u00a0v\u0161etci ist\u00fdm sp\u00f4sobom ovplyv\u0148uj\u00fa v\u00fdsledok. Na varen\u00ed si preto cen\u00edm, \u017ee si v\u0161etko viem pokazi\u0165 s\u00e1m. A\u00a0ke\u010f si to takto pokaz\u00edm, m\u00f4\u017eem sa hneva\u0165 len na seba. Je to svoj\u00edm sp\u00f4sobom ve\u013emi upokojuj\u00face. K\u00a0vareniu patr\u00ed, samozrejme, aj jedenie. A\u00a0jedlo je asi jedna z m\u00e1la spolo\u010dnos\u0165ou verejne tolerovan\u00fdch rozko\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

O\u00a0gastron\u00f3mii a jej dejin\u00e1ch z\u00e1rove\u0148 p\u00fatavo p\u00ed\u0161ete. A<\/strong>ko vznikla t\u00e1to v\u00e1\u0161e\u0148 v\u00a0h\u013eadan\u00ed gurm\u00e1nskych piko\u0161iek?<\/strong><\/p>\n

V\u0161etko iniciovala editorka \u010dasopisu .t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 Elena Ak\u00e1csov\u00e1, ktor\u00e1 mi niekedy v\u00a0roku 2011 povedala: Viem, \u017ee r\u00e1d var\u00ed\u0161, nap\u00ed\u0161 n\u00e1m nie\u010do o\u00a0jedle. Ke\u010f\u017ee viem ako-tak p\u00edsa\u0165 a\u00a0z\u00e1rove\u0148 m\u00e1m r\u00e1d dobr\u00e9 jedlo, tieto dve veci sa spojili. Za\u010dal som si vyh\u013ead\u00e1va\u0165 potrebn\u00e9 inform\u00e1cie, aby som pr\u00edbehy potrav\u00edn a\u00a0jed\u00e1l vedel dobre prerozpr\u00e1va\u0165.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Boli ste gurm\u00e1nom odmali\u010dka?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ani nie. Bol som ve\u013emi nedu\u017eiv\u00e9 die\u0165a, ktor\u00e9 skoro ni\u010d nejedlo. Dokonca som bol na stu\u010d\u0148ovacom t\u00e1bore v Kremnick\u00fdch Baniach. Na t\u00e1bore som e\u0161te schudol p\u00e4\u0165 k\u00edl, v\u00a0mojom pr\u00edpade teda neboli ve\u013emi \u00faspe\u0161n\u00ed. Bol to v\u0161ak kr\u00e1sny pobyt, str\u00e1vil som tam cel\u00fd mesiac. Alebo som gurm\u00e1n rovno od narodenia a\u00a0nechcel som jes\u0165 preto, \u017ee mi v\u00a0tom socializme ni\u010d nechutilo.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

O gastron\u00f3mii koluje to\u013eko m\u00fdtov a nepr\u00e1vd, \u017ee \u010dloveku mus\u00ed robi\u0165 priam rados\u0165 vyvraca\u0165 ich, rob\u00ed? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Cel\u00e1 t\u00e1to oblas\u0165 je ve\u013emi citliv\u00e1, lebo veda napreduje \u010falej. Niektor\u00e9 fakty, ktor\u00e9 platili koncom 19. storo\u010dia alebo aj v 20. storo\u010d\u00ed, sa postupne vyvracaj\u00fa a\u00a0neust\u00e1le prich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa nov\u00e9 inform\u00e1cie, tak\u017ee pri p\u00edsan\u00ed \u010dl\u00e1nkov mus\u00edm postupova\u0165 ve\u013emi opatrne a\u00a0v\u0161etko si overova\u0165. Jedlo je aj s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou kult\u00fary, t\u00fdm p\u00e1dom podlieha ist\u00fdm m\u00f3dnym trendom a\u00a0vln\u00e1m, a\u00a0tak sa okolo neho vytv\u00e1raj\u00fa r\u00f4zne legendy a\u00a0pr\u00edbehy, ktor\u00e9 ho ukazuj\u00fa v\u00a0lep\u0161om svetle. Pr\u00edkladom je \u0161pen\u00e1t, kde sa vedci pri v\u00fdpo\u010dte jeho obsahu \u017eeleza pom\u00fdlili o\u00a0desatinn\u00fa \u010diarku, a\u00a0tak na\u0161a gener\u00e1cia musela jes\u0165 \u0161pen\u00e1t na kil\u00e1. Ned\u00e1vno sa pri\u0161lo na to, \u017ee v\u00a0\u0161pen\u00e1te a\u017e tak ve\u013ea \u017eeleza nie je a\u00a0dokonca ho z\u00a0neho organizmus ani nevie a\u017e tak ve\u013ea z\u00edska\u0165.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nejde v\u0161ak len o\u00a0v\u00fd\u017eivu, ani mnoh\u00e9 n\u00e1rodn\u00e9 jedl\u00e1 nevznikli tam, kde sa od nich o\u010dak\u00e1va. Viedensk\u00fd reze\u0148 nie je z\u00a0Viedne, pizza nie je tak celkom z\u00a0Talianska, ani seged\u00edn nie je zo Szegedu…<\/strong><\/p>\n

Koncept n\u00e1rodn\u00fdch jed\u00e1l je ve\u013emi mlad\u00e1 z\u00e1le\u017eitos\u0165. Vznikol v\u00a0priebehu 18. a\u00a019. storo\u010dia. Je to v\u0161ak umel\u00fd koncept. \u013dudia jedia r\u00f4zne jedl\u00e1, a\u00a0tie s\u00a0nami \u010dasto id\u00fa cel\u00e9 tis\u00edcro\u010dia. \u201ePizzu\u201c piekli u\u017e Per\u017eania v\u00a05. storo\u010d\u00ed p.n.l. na rozp\u00e1len\u00fdch kame\u0148och a\u00a0t\u00fato chlebov\u00fa placku dokonca podobne potierali syrom a\u00a0olivov\u00fdm olejom. \u010eal\u0161\u00edm probl\u00e9mom je, \u017ee ust\u00e1len\u00fd jed\u00e1lni\u010dek sa men\u00ed pokojne aj od\u00a0doliny k\u00a0doline. V\u00a0samotnom Taliansku, ke\u010f porovn\u00e1te Piemont s\u00a0Kal\u00e1briou, n\u00e1jdete v ka\u017edom regi\u00f3ne nie\u010do \u00faplne in\u00e9. Hovori\u0165 o\u00a0n\u00e1rodn\u00fdch jedl\u00e1ch preto pova\u017eujem za smie\u0161ne. Zoberme si napr\u00edklad bryndzov\u00e9 halu\u0161ky, ktor\u00e9 v\u00a0sebe obsahuj\u00fa zemiaky – americk\u00fa plodinu, ktor\u00e1 k\u00a0n\u00e1m pri\u0161la a\u017e v\u00a018. storo\u010d\u00ed. Pri rozpr\u00e1van\u00ed o\u00a0tom, \u017ee je to na\u0161e n\u00e1rodn\u00e9 jedlo, stoj\u00edme na vratkej p\u00f4de. Halu\u0161ky ako n\u00e1rodn\u00e9 jedlo sa ust\u00e1lili po\u010das 20. storo\u010dia, kedy sa n\u00e1\u0161 n\u00e1rod sna\u017eil vtesna\u0165 do umel\u00e9ho socialistick\u00e9ho kon\u0161truktu chudobn\u00fdch a\u00a0nevzdelan\u00fdch ba\u010dov. Mestsk\u00e1 kuchy\u0148a vyzerala \u00faplne inak, \u010di u\u017e v\u00a0Pre\u0161porku, Martine, alebo Ko\u0161iciach, bola ove\u013ea viac naviazan\u00e1 na franc\u00fazsku alebo rak\u00fasko-uhorsk\u00fa kuchy\u0148u. Me\u0161tianske kuchyne boli ve\u013emi dobre z\u00e1sobovan\u00e9 a\u00a0mali priehr\u0161tia\u00a0pestr\u00fdch receptov. Ke\u010f si pozrieme modern\u00fa kuch\u00e1rku Ter\u00e9zie Vansovej z\u00a020. rokov 20. storo\u010dia, ktor\u00e1 mapuje jed\u00e1lni\u010dek Slov\u00e1kov v\u00a019. storo\u010d\u00ed, s\u00a0prekvapen\u00edm zist\u00edme, ak\u00e1 bola t\u00e1 strava modern\u00e1 a kultivovan\u00e1. \u017diadne horalsk\u00e9 pokrmy s\u00a0m\u00e1\u010dankami a\u00a0rozpusten\u00fdm chlebom vo vode, \u017eiaden obraz utl\u00e1\u010danej chudoby, ktor\u00fd sa n\u00e1m tu st\u00e1le sna\u017eili vtla\u010di\u0165. Neboli sme a\u00a0nie sme len horalsk\u00fd n\u00e1rod, ktor\u00fd jedol iba bryndzu a\u00a0ov\u010die syry, jedli sme ove\u013ea pestrej\u0161ie.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u010co by bolo teda vhodnej\u0161\u00edm kandid\u00e1tom na na\u0161e n\u00e1rodn\u00e9 jedlo? <\/strong><\/p>\n

In\u00e9 veci sa jedia v\u00a0Pukanci, in\u00e9 u\u00a0Goralov, in\u00e9 na Z\u00e1hor\u00ed – zjednoti\u0165 to do jedn\u00e9ho jedla je absurdn\u00e9. Kr\u00e1sa spo\u010d\u00edva v\u00a0tom, ko\u013eko jed\u00e1l m\u00e1me a ako sa v\u00a0nich dok\u00e1\u017eeme kocha\u0165. V\u0161etci milujeme bryndzov\u00e9 halu\u0161ky. Bryndza je ve\u013emi v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00e1, jej chu\u0165 je ozaj \u0161pecifick\u00e1 a\u00a0halu\u0161ky ur\u010dite zostan\u00fa u\u017e nav\u017edy na\u0161\u00edm n\u00e1rodn\u00fdm jedlom. Ale hovori\u0165, \u017ee nie\u010do je odvek\u00e9 a\u00a0\u010disto slovensk\u00e9, je ve\u013emi smie\u0161ne. Hlavne v\u00a0tomto okol\u00ed, kde sme boli neust\u00e1le konfrontovan\u00ed s\u00a0in\u00fdmi kult\u00farami a\u00a0preberali od nich to najlep\u0161ie, \u010di u\u017e to boli Turci, Ma\u010fari, Tat\u00e1ri, Rimania, alebo Kelti.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

O bryndzi sa tie\u017e hovor\u00ed, \u017ee je rumunsk\u00e9ho p\u00f4vodu…<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bryndza pri\u0161la s\u00a0vala\u0161skou kult\u00farou, v\u00a0Rumunsku ozna\u010duj\u00fa t\u00fdmto n\u00e1zvom solen\u00fd ov\u010d\u00ed syr. Bryndza, ako ju pozn\u00e1me, v\u0161ak vznikla u\u00a0n\u00e1s a\u00a0je len slovensk\u00fdm \u0161pecifikom. N\u00e1pad pomlie\u0165 syr a\u00a0s\u00a0pridan\u00edm zasolenej vody z\u00a0neho vytvori\u0165 pastu, ktor\u00e1 pripom\u00edna \u010derstv\u00fd syr, no s\u00a0pikantnou dochu\u0165ou, je slovensk\u00fd vyn\u00e1lez od Zvolena a\u00a0zo Slatiny. Peter Valec v\u00a0roku 1797 zalo\u017eil prv\u00fa bryndziare\u0148, Teodor Wallo zasa vo Zvolene vymyslel \u0161peci\u00e1lny roztok, ktor\u00fdm sa bryndza menila na pastu. Tento vyn\u00e1lez sa uchytil, nosil sa aj na cis\u00e1rsky dvor a\u00a0bol vo Viedni mimoriadne ob\u013e\u00faben\u00fd. Aj v\u00a0sl\u00e1vnom ske\u010di Lietaj\u00faceho cirkusu Monty Pythona, kde britsk\u00ed komici vymen\u00favaj\u00fa v\u0161etky syry sveta, sa spom\u00edna aj ten n\u00e1\u0161 z\u00a0Liptova.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Prejdime ku sladkej bodke – napr\u00edklad marshmallow mnoh\u00ed pova\u017euj\u00fa za americk\u00fd vyn\u00e1lez, v\u00a0skuto\u010dnosti v\u0161ak vznikol v\u00a0Egypte…<\/strong><\/p>\n

Samotn\u00fd recept vymysleli Egyp\u0165ania asi pred \u0161tyrmi tis\u00edckami rokov. Pochutn\u00e1va\u0165 si na penov\u00fdch val\u010dekoch patrilo medzi v\u00fdsadu – konzumova\u0165 ich mohli len vl\u00e1dcovia. Vyr\u00e1bali sa z\u00a0kore\u0148a ibi\u0161u lek\u00e1rskeho a\u00a0medu, ktor\u00fd na\u0161\u013eahali do peny a\u00a0vyu\u017e\u00edvali ako \u00fa\u010dinn\u00fd prepar\u00e1t pri probl\u00e9moch s\u00a0d\u00fdchan\u00edm. Vo Franc\u00fazsku ich potom v\u00a018. storo\u010d\u00ed vyr\u00e1bali vo forme dra\u017e\u00e9 a\u00a0odtia\u013e sa marshmallows v\u00a019. storo\u010d\u00ed dostali do Ameriky. Tu z\u00a0nich vymysleli perfektn\u00fa cukrovinku, med nahradili cukrom, bielok a\u00a0ibi\u0161ov\u00fd extrakt \u017eelat\u00ednou a\u00a0cel\u00fa hmotu obalili v\u00a0kukuri\u010dnom \u0161krobe, aby sa nezlepovala. Potom ju vytl\u00e1\u010dali cez tubu na ak\u00e9si hady, ktor\u00e9 sa kr\u00e1jali na vank\u00fa\u0161iky, ako ich pozn\u00e1me dnes. Ameri\u010dania teda vymysleli hlavne syst\u00e9m, ako cukrovinku nareza\u0165 tak, aby sa nezlepila.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hist\u00f3ria je pln\u00e1 receptov, ktor\u00e9 vznikli n\u00e1hodou, ke\u010f niekto nie\u010do niekde zabudol \u010di nar\u00fdchlo \u201ezb\u00fachal\u201c…<\/strong><\/p>\n

Vynikaj\u00faci pr\u00edklad pon\u00faka ikonick\u00fd franc\u00fazsky jabl\u010dn\u00fd kol\u00e1\u010d tarte tatin. Sestry Caroline a\u00a0St\u00e9phanie Tatinov\u00e9 vlastnili hotel\u00edk v\u00a0po\u013eovn\u00edckom kraji v\u00a0\u00fadol\u00ed rieky Loire. Zvykli ma\u0165 ve\u013ea host\u00ed, s\u00a0ktor\u00fdmi sa ob\u010das zarozpr\u00e1vali. Jedna zo sestier sa raz pustila do pe\u010denia klasick\u00e9ho jablkov\u00e9ho kol\u00e1\u010da, no zabudla na cesto, na plech dala len cukor a\u00a0jablk\u00e1. Tak vznikli chutn\u00e9 skaramelizovan\u00e9 jablk\u00e1, ktor\u00e9 potom len r\u00fdchlo prikryla cestom a\u00a0dala upiec\u0165. Ke\u010f kol\u00e1\u010d prevr\u00e1tila sp\u00e4\u0165 na tanier, zistila, \u017ee jab\u013a\u010dka sa v\u00a0karameli kr\u00e1sne obalili a\u00a0vznikol perfektn\u00fd tarte tatin, ktor\u00fd si z\u00e1kazn\u00edci znovu a\u00a0znovu p\u00fdtali. Takouto n\u00e1hodou vznikol jeden z\u00a0najzn\u00e1mej\u0161\u00edch franc\u00fazskych kol\u00e1\u010dov. Recepty v\u0161ak vo v\u0161eobecnosti nevznikaj\u00fa tak, \u017ee si \u010dlovek sadne za st\u00f4l a\u00a0za\u010dne p\u00edsa\u0165. V\u017edy je to o\u00a0tom, \u017ee niekto nie\u010do vysk\u00fa\u0161a, pr\u00edpadne nie\u010do niekam spadne alebo sa n\u00e1hodne pomie\u0161a. Takto vznikli aj tiramisu, cis\u00e1rsky trhanec \u010di nanuk – mnoh\u00e9 s\u00fa to \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9 n\u00e1hody a\u00a0mnoh\u00e9 sa sp\u00e1jaj\u00fa s\u00a0legendami.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 pr\u00edbehy skr\u00fdvaj\u00fa aj samotn\u00e9 potraviny. Pre\u010do bola \u0161parg\u013ea zak\u00e1zanou zeleninou? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Bola zak\u00e1zan\u00e1 hlavne v\u00a0kl\u00e1\u0161toroch, ke\u010f\u017ee m\u00e1 tvar, ktor\u00fd pripom\u00edna ist\u00e9 mu\u017esk\u00e9 partie. Aby sa mn\u00ed\u0161ky vyhli hrie\u0161nym my\u0161lienkam, tak ju rad\u0161ej vyl\u00fa\u010dili z jed\u00e1lni\u010dka. Dodnes sa \u0161parg\u013ea pova\u017euje za siln\u00e9 afrodiziakum, je to dedi\u010dstvo zo stredoveku. V\u0161imnite si, \u017ee ve\u013ea s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00fdch afrodizi\u00e1k tvarom kop\u00edruje na\u0161e ch\u00falostiv\u00e9 partie. Vych\u00e1dza to zo stredovek\u00e9ho myslenia, kedy sa verilo, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00e1 potravina, ktor\u00e1 sa podob\u00e1 na ist\u00fd org\u00e1n, s\u00a0n\u00edm aj nejako s\u00favis\u00ed – vla\u0161sk\u00fd orech je dobr\u00fd na mozog, fazule sa d\u00e1vali na obli\u010dky a\u00a0\u0161parg\u013ea, to si domysl\u00edme (smiech)…<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ktor\u00e9 potraviny sa e\u0161te chtiac-nechtiac sp\u00e1jaj\u00fa s\u00a0necudn\u00fdmi my\u0161lienkami?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tak\u00fdch je ve\u013emi ve\u013ea, mnoh\u00e9 s\u00fa aj nev\u00e1bne p\u00e1chnuce. Nes\u00favis\u00ed to v\u0161ak len s\u00a0ich tvarom, ako pri \u0161pargli \u010di ustrici, ale aj s\u00a0ich lie\u010div\u00fdmi \u00fa\u010dinkami. V\u00a0minul\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch bola strava ve\u013emi \u0165a\u017ek\u00e1, aristokrati jedli ve\u013emi ve\u013ea m\u00e4sa a zajedali ho ka\u0161ami. \u010coko\u013evek, \u010do im dok\u00e1zalo rozh\u00fdba\u0165 \u00fatroby a\u00a0od\u013eah\u010di\u0165 tr\u00e1venie, bolo ihne\u010f aj afrodiziakom. Zrazu mohli myslie\u0165 aj na nie\u010do in\u00e9 ako na to, \u017ee im je zle od \u017eal\u00fadka a\u00a0za\u010dali vym\u00fd\u0161\u013ea\u0165, \u010do so \u017eivotom.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Svet potrav\u00edn dok\u00e1\u017ee st\u00e1le prekvapi\u0165, napr\u00edklad pri syroch mnoh\u00ed poznaj\u00fa parmez\u00e1n \u010di ricottu. \u010co v\u0161ak tak\u00fd exotick\u00fd sard\u00ednsky syr casu marzu, ktor\u00fd je u\u017e \u00fadajne aj zak\u00e1zan\u00fd?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Zak\u00e1za\u0165 nie\u010do z\u00a0jed\u00e1lni\u010dka je ve\u013emi tr\u00fafal\u00e9. Ale je pravda, \u017ee pri casu marzu sa ide do rizika. Tento syr sa o\u010dkuje \u010derv\u00ed\u010dkami, ktor\u00e9 syr potom tr\u00e1via a\u00a0d\u00e1vaj\u00fa mu in\u00fd chu\u0165ov\u00fd t\u00f3n. Sard\u00edn\u010dania ho jedia bu\u010f priamo s\u00a0\u010derv\u00edkmi, alebo maj\u00fa trik, ako ich z\u00a0neho dosta\u0165 pomocou mikrot\u00e9nov\u00e9ho vrecka, ke\u010f\u017ee \u010derv\u00edky s\u00fa citliv\u00e9 na vzduch. Ani nehovoriac o\u00a0tom, \u017ee dok\u00e1\u017eu vysko\u010di\u0165 do v\u00fd\u0161ky 15 cm. M\u00e1lokto to dok\u00e1\u017ee zvl\u00e1dnu\u0165. Casu marzu by z n\u00e1s dobrovo\u013ene nik nejedol, a\u00a0to aj napriek faktu, \u017ee ako deti sme jedli \u010dere\u0161ne pln\u00e9 \u010derv\u00edkov a\u00a0nikto sa t\u00fdm ve\u013emi nezaoberal. Je to ich kult\u00farna z\u00e1le\u017eitos\u0165. Pre \u00c1zij\u010danov s\u00fa absol\u00fatne neprijate\u013en\u00e9 zrej\u00face syry ako rokfort – to, \u010do je\u00a0pre Franc\u00fazov najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ia lah\u00f4dka, ktor\u00fa pod\u00e1vaj\u00fa ako dezert, v\u00a0\u00c1zii pova\u017euj\u00fa za nejedl\u00e9. V\u017edy je to o\u00a0kult\u00farnom nastaven\u00ed aj o\u00a0v\u00fdchove.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Va\u0161u man\u017eelku ste vraj zbalili na dom\u00e1ce lango\u0161e…<\/strong><\/p>\n

To hovor\u00ed ona (smiech). Ale je pravda, \u017ee rob\u00edm v\u00fdborn\u00e9 lango\u0161e. S\u00fa ve\u013emi \u013eahk\u00e9 a\u00a0chrumkav\u00e9, iba okraje s\u00fa penist\u00e9. Nie s\u00fa tak\u00e9 nabit\u00e9 tukom, ani hutn\u00e9, a t\u00fdm p\u00e1dom ich m\u00f4\u017eete zjes\u0165 hoci aj \u0161es\u0165 a\u00a0nie je v\u00e1m z\u00a0nich \u0165a\u017eko ako pri klasick\u00fdch lango\u0161och z\u00a0k\u00fapal\u00edsk a\u00a0trhov.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ak\u00fd ste kuch\u00e1r? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Som leniv\u00fd kuch\u00e1r. H\u013ead\u00e1m efekt\u00edvne skratky, aby som za \u010do najmen\u0161iu n\u00e1mahu z\u00edskal \u010do najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed potlesk. \u010ealej za t\u00fato amb\u00edciu nejdem. Na to, aby ste vedeli naozaj dobre vari\u0165, potrebujete aj \u0161tipku talentu. Mus\u00edte vedie\u0165 vyladi\u0165 chute, rozpozna\u0165, kedy \u010do robi\u0165, prida\u0165, ubra\u0165. D\u00e1 sa to aj nau\u010di\u0165, ale ke\u010f chcete by\u0165 vynikaj\u00faci kuch\u00e1r, chce to talent, ktor\u00fd sa potom rozv\u00edja pr\u00e1cou.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Kv\u00f4li ingredienci\u00e1m v\u00a0receptoch sa niekedy ved\u00fa riadne boje. \u010co pova\u017eujete za najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie faux pas, nad ktor\u00fdm \u0161kr\u00edpete zubami? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Som otvoren\u00fd \u010domuko\u013evek, pokia\u013e to chut\u00ed vynikaj\u00faco, lebo pr\u00e1ve t\u00fdm, \u017ee niekto nie\u010do zabudne alebo urob\u00ed inak, vznikaj\u00fa skvel\u00e9 jedl\u00e1. Existuj\u00fa v\u0161ak aj drobnosti, ktor\u00e9 ke\u010f vid\u00edm v\u00a0kuchyni, tak \u00fapiem od bolesti. Napr\u00edklad ke\u010f niekto neschlad\u00ed cestoviny-ni\u0165ovky do nede\u013enej polievky a\u00a0oni sa rozvaria a\u00a0zlepia, to je absol\u00fatny hriech, nie\u010do, za \u010do by pod\u013ea m\u0148a v\u00a0stredoveku odt\u00ednali ruky. Taliani s\u00fa v\u00a0tom ove\u013ea ohnivej\u0161\u00ed. Sledujem jeden vtipn\u00fd p\u00e1r na Instagrame, Ameri\u010danka rob\u00ed svojmu priate\u013eovi Talianovi stra\u0161n\u00e9 naschv\u00e1ly v\u00a0kuchyni a\u00a0on sa potom ve\u013emi \u010dert\u00ed. Takto pred n\u00edm raz do hrnca nal\u00e1mala \u0161pagety, hotov\u00e1 katastrofa. Rovnako ako zvyk d\u00e1va\u0165 parmez\u00e1n na \u010doko\u013evek, napr\u00edklad aj na morsk\u00e9 plody. Smie\u0161ny mi pr\u00edde aj k\u00e1vi\u010dkov\u00fd \u201eteror\u201c, kde sa fors\u00edruje jeden sp\u00f4sob pr\u00edpravy k\u00e1vy ako ten najspr\u00e1vnej\u0161\u00ed. K\u00e1va sa pripravuje nieko\u013eko tis\u00edc rokov a\u00a0v\u017edy sa men\u00ed od regi\u00f3nu k\u00a0regi\u00f3nu. Nem\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee by jedna bola hor\u0161ia ako druh\u00e1, je to len kult\u00farny fenom\u00e9n a\u00a0v\u017edy v\u00fdsostne subjekt\u00edvny pocit. Presvied\u010da\u0165 niekoho, komu chut\u00ed zalievan\u00fd turek, ktor\u00fd pije cel\u00fd \u017eivot a\u00a0m\u00e1 na\u0148 naviazan\u00e9 najkraj\u0161ie spomienky a\u00a0n\u00fati\u0165 ho na presso s tvrden\u00edm, \u017ee jeho k\u00e1va je prepra\u017een\u00e1 a\u00a0\u201etakto sa to nerob\u00ed\u201c, je prehnan\u00e9. Ka\u017ed\u00fd nech si d\u00e1 to, z\u00a0\u010doho m\u00e1 rados\u0165. Kto potrebuje na pizzu anan\u00e1s, nech si tam d\u00e1 aj ten.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hovor\u00edte, \u017ee chu\u0165 a\u00a0v\u00f4\u0148a n\u00e1s dok\u00e1\u017eu prenies\u0165 roky dozadu tak, ako to nedok\u00e1\u017ee \u017eiaden in\u00fd zmysel. Ak\u00e9 s\u00fa ob\u013e\u00faben\u00e9 chute a\u00a0v\u00f4ne v\u00e1\u0161ho detstva? <\/strong><\/p>\n

Moja babka robievala fantastick\u00e9 kysnut\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de, ktor\u00e9 sa nau\u010dila piec\u0165 za mladi na Morave ako sl\u00fa\u017eka. Cez pr\u00e1zdniny, ke\u010f sme boli u\u00a0nej, sme sa ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no budili do sladko-kyslej v\u00f4ne pe\u010den\u00e9ho kysnut\u00e9ho cesta a na stole n\u00e1s v\u017edy \u010dakali \u010derstv\u00e9 vo\u0148av\u00e9 pletenky s\u00a0mliekom. Ale je to aj v\u00f4\u0148a kuracej polievky, viano\u010dn\u00fdch kol\u00e1\u010dov – najm\u00e4 vanilkov\u00fdch ro\u017ekov, bez nich by Vianoce akoby ani neboli. Je zvl\u00e1\u0161tne, ako si presne spom\u00ednam aj na v\u00f4ne, ktor\u00e9 vych\u00e1dzali zo \u0161kolsk\u00fdch jed\u00e1ln\u00ed. Ob\u00e1vam sa, \u017ee aj na nich je nejak\u00e1 vrstvi\u010dka nostalgie.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ke\u010f pr\u00edde na jedlo, ste gurm\u00e1nsky svetobe\u017en\u00edk, alebo n\u00e1rodovec? <\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u00f4\u017ee sa v\u00e1m niekto du\u0161ova\u0165, ak\u00fd je svetobe\u017en\u00edk, ale pr\u00edde jeho babka, pon\u00fakne mu rezne alebo dom\u00e1ci seged\u00edn a\u00a0je straten\u00fd. Netreba to vyhra\u0148ova\u0165, jedlo je v\u017edy z\u00e1\u017eitok. Je jedno, \u010di chu\u0165ov\u00fd, alebo umeleck\u00fd, \u010di v\u00e1m \u0161pi\u010dkov\u00fd kuch\u00e1r ako Massimo Bottura alebo Ren\u00e9 Redzepi vytvor\u00ed koncert chut\u00ed v\u00a0podobe osemchodov\u00e9ho degusta\u010dn\u00e9ho menu, alebo je to z\u00e1\u017eitok kult\u00farny, pr\u00edpadne nie\u010do, na \u010do m\u00e1te naviazan\u00e9 spomienky. T\u00e1 chu\u0165 v\u00e1m spr\u00edtomn\u00ed miesta, kde sa c\u00edtite dobre, bezpe\u010dne a\u00a0milovan\u00fd, a ten z\u00e1\u017eitok je \u010dastokr\u00e1t rovnocenn\u00fd.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Okrem gurm\u00e1nskych esej\u00ed p\u00ed\u0161ete aj scen\u00e1re pre zn\u00e1me slovensk\u00e9 seri\u00e1ly. Ako si spom\u00ednate na va\u0161e za\u010diatky?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Na Slovensku sa seri\u00e1lov\u00e1 tvorba po roku 1989 preru\u0161ila, dlho sa nerobilo ni\u010d, obnovova\u0165 sa za\u010dala a\u017e v\u00a0roku 2005 a\u00a0s\u00a0man\u017eelkou sme zhodou okolnost\u00ed boli pri tom. Telev\u00edzna scen\u00e1ristick\u00e1 tvorba sa v\u0161ak musela za\u010da\u0165 budova\u0165 od piky, v\u00fdrobn\u00e1 logistika denn\u00fdch seri\u00e1lov u\u00a0n\u00e1s nikdy neexistovala. Ich v\u00fdroba je ove\u013ea r\u00fdchlej\u0161ia, ne\u017e sme za socializmu zvyknut\u00ed, vtedy sa robilo ove\u013ea s\u00fastredenej\u0161ie, seri\u00e1lov vznikalo menej. Teraz je to obrovsk\u00e9 kvantum a\u00a0je to tak dobre, kvantita po \u010dase prinesie aj kvalitu. \u010clovek m\u00e1 po \u010dase \u0161ancu robi\u0165 nie\u010do lep\u0161ie, tematicky zauj\u00edmavej\u0161ie, odv\u00e1\u017enej\u0161ie.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ako je na tom kvalita slovensk\u00fdch seri\u00e1lov z\u00a0v\u00e1\u0161ho poh\u013eadu? \u0160ij\u00fa sa hor\u00facou ihlou?<\/strong><\/p>\n

To si nemysl\u00edm. Je pravda, \u017ee na ne nie je to\u013eko \u010dasu, ako maj\u00fa tvorcovia v\u00a0Amerike a\u00a0nie je na ne ani to\u013eko pe\u0148az\u00ed. Tie\u017e je vidno, \u017ee telev\u00edzny trh sa vyv\u00edja. E\u0161te pred desiatimi rokmi by si nik nepomyslel, \u017ee by tu mohol vznikn\u00fa\u0165 seri\u00e1l o\u00a0ranom stredoveku s\u00a0prvkami fantasy \u010di ak\u010dn\u00e1 rukojemn\u00edcka dr\u00e1ma. Bolo by v\u0161ak od n\u00e1s tr\u00fafal\u00e9 po\u017eadova\u0165, aby sme mali okam\u017eite \u00farove\u0148 v\u0161etk\u00fdch seri\u00e1lov, ak\u00fa maj\u00fa v USA, ktor\u00e9 v\u00a0tomto segmente nepretr\u017eite ud\u00e1vaj\u00fa tempo. Sme pr\u00edli\u0161 mal\u00fd trh, aby sme si to mohli dovoli\u0165. Nemysl\u00edm si z\u00e1rove\u0148, \u017ee je na\u0161\u00edm prvotn\u00fdm cie\u013eom vytv\u00e1ra\u0165 seri\u00e1ly, ktor\u00e9 by boli za ka\u017ed\u00fa cenu svetoborn\u00e9. Seri\u00e1ly spadaj\u00fa pod takzvan\u00fa z\u00e1bavn\u00fa tvorbu, div\u00e1k si chce pri nich v\u00a0prvom rade odd\u00fdchnu\u0165. Sk\u00f4r je na\u0161\u00edm cie\u013eom rozpr\u00e1va\u0165 pr\u00edbehy o\u00a0n\u00e1s, Slov\u00e1koch, lebo nik in\u00fd ne\u017e my ich nevyrozpr\u00e1va.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ak\u00fd seri\u00e1l si r\u00e1d pozriete vo vo\u013enom \u010dase?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ke\u010f\u017ee mus\u00edm ma\u0165 preh\u013ead o\u00a0tom najlep\u0161om na trhu a\u00a0o trendoch, naj\u010dastej\u0161ie vyh\u013ead\u00e1vam seri\u00e1ly na streamovac\u00edch platform\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 maj\u00fa amb\u00edcie by\u0165 l\u00eddrom v\u00a0danom roku, dot\u00fdkaj\u00fa sa nejak\u00e9ho fenom\u00e9nu alebo s\u00fa zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 form\u00e1lne. V\u00a0s\u00fa\u010dasnosti je tak\u00fdm seri\u00e1l Euf\u00f3ria, ktor\u00fd \u0161okuj\u00facim sp\u00f4sobom zobrazuje \u017eivot stredo\u0161kol\u00e1kov – to, v\u00a0akom svete \u017eij\u00fa a\u00a0\u010d\u00edm si prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa. Seri\u00e1l nie je zauj\u00edmav\u00fd len pr\u00edbehom a\u00a0hereck\u00fdmi v\u00fdkonmi, ale aj v\u00fdtvarn\u00fdm uchopen\u00edm a\u00a0sp\u00f4sobom rozpr\u00e1vania, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa \u00faplne nov\u00e9. Tvorcovia tie\u017e pomrk\u00e1vaj\u00fa na pou\u010den\u00e9ho filmov\u00e9ho fan\u00fa\u0161ika r\u00f4znymi cit\u00e1tmi a sp\u00f4sobmi sn\u00edmania, ktor\u00e9 odkazuj\u00fa na najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie men\u00e1 filmov\u00e9ho a\u00a0telev\u00edzneho priemyslu.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Zuzana Zimmermannov\u00e1<\/p>\n

foto Gabina Weissov\u00e1<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cel\u00fd rozhovor si pre\u010d\u00edtate v apr\u00edlovom \u010d\u00edsle MIAU (2022)<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Kedysi sa kv\u00f4li nemu viedli vojny a\u00a0\u0161arv\u00e1tky, dnes nad n\u00edm najprv cvakaj\u00fa blesky smartf\u00f3nov a\u00a0pri zbiehaj\u00facich sa slin\u00e1ch sa zdie\u013ea hashtag #foodporn. Jedlo dok\u00e1\u017ee rozpr\u00e1va\u0165 neuverite\u013en\u00e9 pr\u00edbehy a rozp\u00e1li\u0165 mnoh\u00e9 v\u00e1\u0161ne, no v\u00a0skuto\u010dnosti najm\u00e4 sp\u00e1ja. Omamn\u00e9 chute a\u00a0intenz\u00edvne v\u00f4ne, ale aj \u013eud\u00ed z\u00a0rovnak\u00e9ho i\u00a0kontrastn\u00e9ho cesta. Podobne ako scen\u00e1rista Jozef Kolej\u00e1k sp\u00e1ja svoj talent na […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":9993,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[109,6],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9989","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-april-2022","category-interview"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9989","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9989"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9989\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9995,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9989\/revisions\/9995"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/9993"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9989"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9989"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.miaumagazin.sk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9989"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}